Well, i nearly missed decemeber
thinking very seriously about doing at least Senegal and Mali next year for say 17 days, and completing all that i set out to earlier this year (except for the Burkina crossing, thinking about that)
Hope that everyone had a great christmas. I am two chapters off completing a first draft of my book too!
Friday, December 29, 2006
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Obligatory monthly post
Hey one and all.
It is November. I have been posting once a month of late, so here it is. The year is slowly coming to an end, and my travel plans for next year are yet to firm in any way. The book is coming along rather nicely though, I have eleven chapters complete now. I am pretty happy about that!
For the first time since returning home bedragled and malaria-rised, I have had thoughts about returning (someday) to Africa. It is unlikely to be the next trip, but I regret immensely not getting to Dakar, as was the plan. It was the plan in 2004, and the plan in 2006, and it remains unachieved. I for one want to achieve my goal and get there, and that means flying (somehow) back to Ouagadougou and getting through Mali to Senegal so that I can say that i did the whole journey. A more realistic thing to do would be to fly back into fair Accra and make my way to Burkina Faso via Kumasi, a Ghanain town i never reached.
These thoughts are reminiscent of the way I first felt about India in 1999. I left the place sick, bedraggled and so forth after surviving bad bowels for ages, earthquakes and even a car accident on my way to the airport. I swore i was never going back! However, i developed some sort of resolve afterwards and was back there in January 2001, 18 months later. hmmmm... anything could happen.
It is November. I have been posting once a month of late, so here it is. The year is slowly coming to an end, and my travel plans for next year are yet to firm in any way. The book is coming along rather nicely though, I have eleven chapters complete now. I am pretty happy about that!
For the first time since returning home bedragled and malaria-rised, I have had thoughts about returning (someday) to Africa. It is unlikely to be the next trip, but I regret immensely not getting to Dakar, as was the plan. It was the plan in 2004, and the plan in 2006, and it remains unachieved. I for one want to achieve my goal and get there, and that means flying (somehow) back to Ouagadougou and getting through Mali to Senegal so that I can say that i did the whole journey. A more realistic thing to do would be to fly back into fair Accra and make my way to Burkina Faso via Kumasi, a Ghanain town i never reached.
These thoughts are reminiscent of the way I first felt about India in 1999. I left the place sick, bedraggled and so forth after surviving bad bowels for ages, earthquakes and even a car accident on my way to the airport. I swore i was never going back! However, i developed some sort of resolve afterwards and was back there in January 2001, 18 months later. hmmmm... anything could happen.
Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Time passing, writings, life update. Musings in general
Well it's now mid October, and yet again it's been ages since i posted. What should one post about? Well at the moment I am working busily on a book. This book is an account of my travels in 2004. For those who don't know what I got up to that year, I flew from Melbourne to Malaysia, then on to Dhaka in Bangladesh. From there I made my way overland to Europe. After Europe I had a couple of months in North America before heading home. This was a ten month journey, and I my biggest trip (like, ever!). I always wanted to write a book about it, and since returning home from Africa this year it's something I have really dug into. In fact I hope to have a draft completed by the end of the year, or maybe end of January is more realistic. Perhaps I should post extracts here? What do people think.
Well, life is rolling on otherwise with work and Theatresports. Yes I do Impro with the esteemed company Impro Melbourne, something I have neglected to mention to this point. I think. I mean... sorry but I don't have the will or energy to check previous posts to see if I have or not.
Getting a new job this year and working with people with disabilities has been a challenge, but a good one nonetheless. 2006 has turned out to be a strange year indeed. I feel rather like I am floating at the moment. Nevertheless things are moving on alright.
Here are a couple of pictures from Iran, the chapter I am presently working on. The first is Persepolis, ancient ruins near the town of Shiraz. The second is a bridge and river from the amazing Isfahan, one of the more beautiful cities in the world. Enjoy!
Well, life is rolling on otherwise with work and Theatresports. Yes I do Impro with the esteemed company Impro Melbourne, something I have neglected to mention to this point. I think. I mean... sorry but I don't have the will or energy to check previous posts to see if I have or not.
Getting a new job this year and working with people with disabilities has been a challenge, but a good one nonetheless. 2006 has turned out to be a strange year indeed. I feel rather like I am floating at the moment. Nevertheless things are moving on alright.
Here are a couple of pictures from Iran, the chapter I am presently working on. The first is Persepolis, ancient ruins near the town of Shiraz. The second is a bridge and river from the amazing Isfahan, one of the more beautiful cities in the world. Enjoy!
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Status Report
September in Melbourne
spring is in the air
work is busy and so am i....
planning on travels next year, the book has ground to a (temporary) halt.
Maybe Latvia, Lithuania, Finland and Estonia next year...
well thats a plan in my head
if i cant wait so long
laos and thailand in january
later world
spring is in the air
work is busy and so am i....
planning on travels next year, the book has ground to a (temporary) halt.
Maybe Latvia, Lithuania, Finland and Estonia next year...
well thats a plan in my head
if i cant wait so long
laos and thailand in january
later world
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Burkina Faso Photos
Here are some pics I took in Burkina Faso... 'bout time I published them don't ya think???
Here's a termite mound down in the south... quite an impressive one at that!
Here's some ladies dancing at a cafe in Ouagadougou and having a great time!!!
Here's the trusiest animal around, the ever present mule!!!
Here are two mosques, one in Bobi Diolasso, the other the Grand Mosque in Ouagadougou.
Here's a termite mound down in the south... quite an impressive one at that!
Here's some ladies dancing at a cafe in Ouagadougou and having a great time!!!
Here's the trusiest animal around, the ever present mule!!!
Here are two mosques, one in Bobi Diolasso, the other the Grand Mosque in Ouagadougou.
An African Conlusion, A conclusion (Part Five)
This part doesn't really take place in Africa.... hehe
Well, getting through the airport in Paris, Charles De Gaulle, was pretty easy. In Australia, if you have come on a flight from any plce you are under intense scrutiny, in Paris i didn't even need to open the passport. Everyone seemed to be let through without any serious sort of passport examination.
I waited a little while for my baggage, and then I set out to book a flight home and to find a bed for the night. Having only one hours sleep, and still nowhere near 100% fit, i needed some serious rest. I went to find the Emirates office to book a ticket, which took forever to find and in the end was closed. Of course!! So in the end i found a computer terminal and tried to book a flight home for the next day.
Eventually I did, much to my relief, and got a very cheap price too - around 700 EUROS.... thats darn cheap, especially for a flight booked for the next day. Then i hopped a bus to an airport hotel. I should mention that the temperature was about 1 degree celcius, and there was snow falling all around the huge Charles De Gaulle airport. What an incredible contrast to the 40 degrees i had been experiencing only a day before.
I checked into a hotel that was comfortable but well overpriced for the size of the room. Thats airport hotels i guess, and to be expected. I considered taking the metro into Paris but decided i was far too tired. In the end I slept the afternoon, went down for a pretty nice meal, and returned to the room where i fell asleep again for the night.
I awoke to find I had missed breakfast proper and would have to survive on the after 10am breakfast which was basic at best. Still, I had a croissant in France. At the terminal there was a mazzive queue already for the flight to Dubai, and it took an hour to check in, possibly more.
The flight left a few minutes late, and finally I felt like was heading home. I met a very nice girl - Pia, from Brisbane on this flight. At the Dubai airport we both had a few hours to kill, so we spent them singing and reminiscing about the Buffy musical episode.
We parted ways too quicly though :( and I was on my way home. The flight stopped for an hour in Singapore... and felt like it would never end. My stomach developed pain which was not good, and sleep didn't really some. after around 25 hours including stops in airports from paris, i was touching down in good old melbourne.
But it wasn't over... after waiting an age for my baggage, i was then subjected to thorough searches as were most people on the flight. It was now 2.30 am when i got out of the airport. Perhaps the authorities were just bored as it was the only flight in at the time... im not sure...
but home in australia i was....
and three days later back in hospital for tests and observation. The stomach remained bad, anxiety bad too...
but that was back in early march, and life now is on the up. oh i promised pics.... will be up soon i promise you!
Well, getting through the airport in Paris, Charles De Gaulle, was pretty easy. In Australia, if you have come on a flight from any plce you are under intense scrutiny, in Paris i didn't even need to open the passport. Everyone seemed to be let through without any serious sort of passport examination.
I waited a little while for my baggage, and then I set out to book a flight home and to find a bed for the night. Having only one hours sleep, and still nowhere near 100% fit, i needed some serious rest. I went to find the Emirates office to book a ticket, which took forever to find and in the end was closed. Of course!! So in the end i found a computer terminal and tried to book a flight home for the next day.
Eventually I did, much to my relief, and got a very cheap price too - around 700 EUROS.... thats darn cheap, especially for a flight booked for the next day. Then i hopped a bus to an airport hotel. I should mention that the temperature was about 1 degree celcius, and there was snow falling all around the huge Charles De Gaulle airport. What an incredible contrast to the 40 degrees i had been experiencing only a day before.
I checked into a hotel that was comfortable but well overpriced for the size of the room. Thats airport hotels i guess, and to be expected. I considered taking the metro into Paris but decided i was far too tired. In the end I slept the afternoon, went down for a pretty nice meal, and returned to the room where i fell asleep again for the night.
I awoke to find I had missed breakfast proper and would have to survive on the after 10am breakfast which was basic at best. Still, I had a croissant in France. At the terminal there was a mazzive queue already for the flight to Dubai, and it took an hour to check in, possibly more.
The flight left a few minutes late, and finally I felt like was heading home. I met a very nice girl - Pia, from Brisbane on this flight. At the Dubai airport we both had a few hours to kill, so we spent them singing and reminiscing about the Buffy musical episode.
We parted ways too quicly though :( and I was on my way home. The flight stopped for an hour in Singapore... and felt like it would never end. My stomach developed pain which was not good, and sleep didn't really some. after around 25 hours including stops in airports from paris, i was touching down in good old melbourne.
But it wasn't over... after waiting an age for my baggage, i was then subjected to thorough searches as were most people on the flight. It was now 2.30 am when i got out of the airport. Perhaps the authorities were just bored as it was the only flight in at the time... im not sure...
but home in australia i was....
and three days later back in hospital for tests and observation. The stomach remained bad, anxiety bad too...
but that was back in early march, and life now is on the up. oh i promised pics.... will be up soon i promise you!
Wednesday, July 05, 2006
Part Four
Oh so it's been a while since i wrote about the end of Africa, I suppose it is time to continue the saga.... the question will be, what will I write about now?? My future plans?? Perhaps i will relate the occasional story from other trips. Then i could post a few photos and the like....
how is everyone anyways??
I returned to a comfortable house in the suburbs of Ouagadougou, where i stayed with a couple doing missionary work in Burkina Faso. It was nice to be staying in a home enviroment for a change, especially in an African setting. I was able to watch dvds and relax, and we visited a restaurant/club exclusively for ex-pats that even had a pool and played English-language movies.
Soon I went into town and organised a flight to Paris that evening, and also found some nice material to take home with me. I returned to the house and tried to organise tickets from Paris to Melbourne with Emirates on the net, but had trouble completing the transaction, so eventually failed.
I had to pack and prepare that afternoon, the flight was due to depart at 11.30pm, getting into Paris in the wee hours of the morning. Pack I did, and soon was ready to leave. I was taken out to dinner with some others my new friends knew (that can't be good English!), and we had my bags in the back of the car and took off for some sort of community with lots of houses inside.
Just when i felt things we're going alright, i tucked into the chicken and suddenly discovered I was eating something with peanuts.
When departing Australia, as I may have mentioned, I was deeply worried about the abundance of peanuts in Africa and in African cooking. But I was there, three hours before flying out, having an anaphylactic reaction to peanuts when I thought I might survive Africa without one at all. We hopped into the car/van and drove straight to the Doctor who was surprised to see me again, that's for sure.
This might be where I'd leave you.... but I am not in the mood for a cliffhanger today.
I was a bit sick from the peanuts, but suddenly felt fine. I was worried that I was staying in Ouagadougou again, but the Doctor said I was free to leave, so we drove to the airport from there where check-in took an inordinate amount of time.
It all seemed to take forever, I missed out on converting back my local currency as the exchange booth closed at 10pm, and then I thought I had lost my phone and my friends left (ever so kindly and without my asking) to look for it. Then I found it and was so embarrassed.
Slowly we moved from one procedure to the next. My passport was checked six times, the plane was going to be full and it seemed to be taking forever.
I spoke to a couple of Air France hostesses taking the flight about all the checks and they told me it was important and gave an example of an Air France jet that was blown up in Chad. This did not help me at all.
Despite being on the more comfortable Airbus it was quire cramped, and I was lucky to get an hour or so's sleep. I woke during turbulence over Algiers, and at 5.30am or so in the morning we descended on Charles De Gaulle Airport, Paris...
how is everyone anyways??
I returned to a comfortable house in the suburbs of Ouagadougou, where i stayed with a couple doing missionary work in Burkina Faso. It was nice to be staying in a home enviroment for a change, especially in an African setting. I was able to watch dvds and relax, and we visited a restaurant/club exclusively for ex-pats that even had a pool and played English-language movies.
Soon I went into town and organised a flight to Paris that evening, and also found some nice material to take home with me. I returned to the house and tried to organise tickets from Paris to Melbourne with Emirates on the net, but had trouble completing the transaction, so eventually failed.
I had to pack and prepare that afternoon, the flight was due to depart at 11.30pm, getting into Paris in the wee hours of the morning. Pack I did, and soon was ready to leave. I was taken out to dinner with some others my new friends knew (that can't be good English!), and we had my bags in the back of the car and took off for some sort of community with lots of houses inside.
Just when i felt things we're going alright, i tucked into the chicken and suddenly discovered I was eating something with peanuts.
When departing Australia, as I may have mentioned, I was deeply worried about the abundance of peanuts in Africa and in African cooking. But I was there, three hours before flying out, having an anaphylactic reaction to peanuts when I thought I might survive Africa without one at all. We hopped into the car/van and drove straight to the Doctor who was surprised to see me again, that's for sure.
This might be where I'd leave you.... but I am not in the mood for a cliffhanger today.
I was a bit sick from the peanuts, but suddenly felt fine. I was worried that I was staying in Ouagadougou again, but the Doctor said I was free to leave, so we drove to the airport from there where check-in took an inordinate amount of time.
It all seemed to take forever, I missed out on converting back my local currency as the exchange booth closed at 10pm, and then I thought I had lost my phone and my friends left (ever so kindly and without my asking) to look for it. Then I found it and was so embarrassed.
Slowly we moved from one procedure to the next. My passport was checked six times, the plane was going to be full and it seemed to be taking forever.
I spoke to a couple of Air France hostesses taking the flight about all the checks and they told me it was important and gave an example of an Air France jet that was blown up in Chad. This did not help me at all.
Despite being on the more comfortable Airbus it was quire cramped, and I was lucky to get an hour or so's sleep. I woke during turbulence over Algiers, and at 5.30am or so in the morning we descended on Charles De Gaulle Airport, Paris...
Monday, June 26, 2006
World Cup fanatics
Well the world cup fever is here in full in Australia. Tomorrow morning they will probably be knocked out.
This world cup debuted a couple of nations i visited in west africa. Togo didnt win a game in the World Cup, but toiled well. Ghana plays Brazil tonight after australia and Italy. So i wish them luck.. but also luck to brazil as i have a couple of friends there!
I remember watching the African Cup of Nations whilst in West Africa, and seeing the response from the locals... the Ghanains must be absolutely ecstatic with the way they have played.
Cote D'Ivoire managed a win in the group stage in the world cup but didnt make it through to the second round. They were in the final of the African Cup of Nations losing a penalty shootout to Egypt.
so it all brings back memories
hope everyone is well
andy
This world cup debuted a couple of nations i visited in west africa. Togo didnt win a game in the World Cup, but toiled well. Ghana plays Brazil tonight after australia and Italy. So i wish them luck.. but also luck to brazil as i have a couple of friends there!
I remember watching the African Cup of Nations whilst in West Africa, and seeing the response from the locals... the Ghanains must be absolutely ecstatic with the way they have played.
Cote D'Ivoire managed a win in the group stage in the world cup but didnt make it through to the second round. They were in the final of the African Cup of Nations losing a penalty shootout to Egypt.
so it all brings back memories
hope everyone is well
andy
Tuesday, June 20, 2006
An African Conclusion Part Three
My week in hospital was, well, relaxing at times, at others not so relaxing.
That was when i would wake up having an axiety attack as a reaction from Mefloquine intially used to treat the malaria when i was in Banfora. The clinic was clean and some of the staff friendly. One nurse on nightshift wasn't though which didn't help my anxiety. I felt i was about to burst at one point.
My new american friend came and visited me as did a couple of other i had met, and they found i had an infection on top of the malaria and began to treat that as well. a week on a drip = fun fun fun.
Eventually i was let out told i was totally better. The stomach was still very delicate though, but at least i was able to eat now. I had dropped some twelve kilos since i left Australia (and ive only put four on since which im happy about).
The person i met from the US took me in and i stayed with her and her husband, they are missionaries and really nice warm friendly people. I was lucky again. Eating wasn't so great, but i got to visit the 'American Club' where lots of ex pats visit for a good meal.
I sorted out a flight to Paris but couldnt book online paris to melbourne as the connection was too darn slow. I decided to go to Paris and see what happens from there to go home.
I went shopping too and bought some material, but i was quite exhausted and returned back to the house.
I started to get my belongings together - i had booked a flight out that night!!!!!
and yet again to be continued...
That was when i would wake up having an axiety attack as a reaction from Mefloquine intially used to treat the malaria when i was in Banfora. The clinic was clean and some of the staff friendly. One nurse on nightshift wasn't though which didn't help my anxiety. I felt i was about to burst at one point.
My new american friend came and visited me as did a couple of other i had met, and they found i had an infection on top of the malaria and began to treat that as well. a week on a drip = fun fun fun.
Eventually i was let out told i was totally better. The stomach was still very delicate though, but at least i was able to eat now. I had dropped some twelve kilos since i left Australia (and ive only put four on since which im happy about).
The person i met from the US took me in and i stayed with her and her husband, they are missionaries and really nice warm friendly people. I was lucky again. Eating wasn't so great, but i got to visit the 'American Club' where lots of ex pats visit for a good meal.
I sorted out a flight to Paris but couldnt book online paris to melbourne as the connection was too darn slow. I decided to go to Paris and see what happens from there to go home.
I went shopping too and bought some material, but i was quite exhausted and returned back to the house.
I started to get my belongings together - i had booked a flight out that night!!!!!
and yet again to be continued...
Wednesday, June 07, 2006
An African Conclusion Part Two
So yes continuing on..... how is everyone by the way?? hope you're all well!
After a night where i woke up at 3am having a huge panic attack then being sick i concluded that the drugs given to me for the stomach pains may not be great. I was learning the hard way about African medicine. SO much fun.
Well, i woke up early that morning at about 7am and couldn't sleep. There was an early bus at some point back to Ouagadougou and i was determined to make it. I dragged myself back to the bus station again and hopped on a big, comfortable airconditioned bus, the likes of which i hadn't seen yet in Africa.
I also met a nice American lady who had incidently been at the restaurant i was at the previous evening. She's living in Burkina Faso and must have been sent by God to save me from this experience i was having... finally a little support had arrived. Thanks again!
Well that bus journey was hell.. truly as bad as i could have imagined. I had anxiety and a sick stomach and it just took forever. I had my Ipod on me which helped a little, but i still don't know how i survived.
Well i had been trying to choose between just flying to Europe or getting medical help, and with my new friend i chose the latter.
I went to a medical clinic that sees westerners frequently and spoke with a doctor who actually speaks English. Quite a relief!
Before i knew it though, he was admitting me into hospital, they were taking loads of blood from me and it looked like i would be there for quite some time. He believed i still had malaria and perhaps some other problem. I had a bed though in a room with another guy who was from Cote D'Ivoire, and also had an air conditioner. So wasn't too bad.
My hospital stay had begun...
After a night where i woke up at 3am having a huge panic attack then being sick i concluded that the drugs given to me for the stomach pains may not be great. I was learning the hard way about African medicine. SO much fun.
Well, i woke up early that morning at about 7am and couldn't sleep. There was an early bus at some point back to Ouagadougou and i was determined to make it. I dragged myself back to the bus station again and hopped on a big, comfortable airconditioned bus, the likes of which i hadn't seen yet in Africa.
I also met a nice American lady who had incidently been at the restaurant i was at the previous evening. She's living in Burkina Faso and must have been sent by God to save me from this experience i was having... finally a little support had arrived. Thanks again!
Well that bus journey was hell.. truly as bad as i could have imagined. I had anxiety and a sick stomach and it just took forever. I had my Ipod on me which helped a little, but i still don't know how i survived.
Well i had been trying to choose between just flying to Europe or getting medical help, and with my new friend i chose the latter.
I went to a medical clinic that sees westerners frequently and spoke with a doctor who actually speaks English. Quite a relief!
Before i knew it though, he was admitting me into hospital, they were taking loads of blood from me and it looked like i would be there for quite some time. He believed i still had malaria and perhaps some other problem. I had a bed though in a room with another guy who was from Cote D'Ivoire, and also had an air conditioner. So wasn't too bad.
My hospital stay had begun...
Monday, May 22, 2006
An African Conclusion Part One
Well this is a turn up for the books isn't it??? It sure bloody is.. a post after... well god it's so long i won't measure time.
So what the hell did happen to me??
What I am planning to do on this blog, is over the next week or two complete the story of my Africa adventure in little pieces.... then who knows. I guess some more photos can be uploaded, i can talk about other travel experiences and what I am up to....
For instance, I am trying to write me a book about my travels in 2004. If only I knew something about writing and publishing a book.... anyways -
Well, last time you joined us I believe i was in Bobo-Diolasso, a rather hot city in Burkina Faso. I am at home now, so a lot has gone on since then.
Well those days were rather dark. I hopped on a bus one day in February and was on my way to the next country, Mali. Fifteen minutes into the journey though I was feeling awfully sick. The bus stopped at a police check point, and I pulled the pin on the journey and decided to return to Bobo. I was helped onto a bush taxi like affair and bundled back to my hotel where the room had just been cleaned and I checked in again.
Then things got really bad. I have had a bad experience with Mefloquine before, also known as Larium. The doctor in Banfora has prescribed it to me to fight the Malaria, and being in a delirious state with fever i didn't even notice what i was taking, and once I did notice, well, I figured I should keep taking it as Malaria is a fucking serious sort of disease. Well this was the day I started to pay for taking the Mefloquine. I had a serious and lasting anxiety attack.
I didn't know where to turn. I spent time mindlessly using the internet and sending emails to my parents. There were some Aussies who had arrived at my hotel and I asked for help, but they really seemed freaked out by me, or didn't want me to cut into their group.
I stayed there for a couple more days, and decided I was going to get out of Africa and get to Europe. A nice guy I met at the internet cafe took me to see his brother who was a Doctor. I was at the point where i had a searing pain in my stomach, and swallowing even water was really hard for me. This coupled with nausia and anxiety was not a good combination. And I was still getting really hot at night as the fever hadn't died down.
The Doctor didn't really examine me, he listened to my story translated in French by my freind known as 'Web'. He said I still had the malaria, and prescribed something for that (not Mefloquine) and something for the stomach he thought was from the malaria also.
I struggled to eat half of my dinner that night, whilst an American couple talked to some others who had just arrived here on another table. I had bought my ticket back to Ouagadougou for the next morning, and I went off to bed, hoping for some sort of sleep....
TO BE CONTINUED.
So what the hell did happen to me??
What I am planning to do on this blog, is over the next week or two complete the story of my Africa adventure in little pieces.... then who knows. I guess some more photos can be uploaded, i can talk about other travel experiences and what I am up to....
For instance, I am trying to write me a book about my travels in 2004. If only I knew something about writing and publishing a book.... anyways -
Well, last time you joined us I believe i was in Bobo-Diolasso, a rather hot city in Burkina Faso. I am at home now, so a lot has gone on since then.
Well those days were rather dark. I hopped on a bus one day in February and was on my way to the next country, Mali. Fifteen minutes into the journey though I was feeling awfully sick. The bus stopped at a police check point, and I pulled the pin on the journey and decided to return to Bobo. I was helped onto a bush taxi like affair and bundled back to my hotel where the room had just been cleaned and I checked in again.
Then things got really bad. I have had a bad experience with Mefloquine before, also known as Larium. The doctor in Banfora has prescribed it to me to fight the Malaria, and being in a delirious state with fever i didn't even notice what i was taking, and once I did notice, well, I figured I should keep taking it as Malaria is a fucking serious sort of disease. Well this was the day I started to pay for taking the Mefloquine. I had a serious and lasting anxiety attack.
I didn't know where to turn. I spent time mindlessly using the internet and sending emails to my parents. There were some Aussies who had arrived at my hotel and I asked for help, but they really seemed freaked out by me, or didn't want me to cut into their group.
I stayed there for a couple more days, and decided I was going to get out of Africa and get to Europe. A nice guy I met at the internet cafe took me to see his brother who was a Doctor. I was at the point where i had a searing pain in my stomach, and swallowing even water was really hard for me. This coupled with nausia and anxiety was not a good combination. And I was still getting really hot at night as the fever hadn't died down.
The Doctor didn't really examine me, he listened to my story translated in French by my freind known as 'Web'. He said I still had the malaria, and prescribed something for that (not Mefloquine) and something for the stomach he thought was from the malaria also.
I struggled to eat half of my dinner that night, whilst an American couple talked to some others who had just arrived here on another table. I had bought my ticket back to Ouagadougou for the next morning, and I went off to bed, hoping for some sort of sleep....
TO BE CONTINUED.
Saturday, February 18, 2006
oh i can't be fçàé£d with a title
well
im feeling so so folks.... not sure if ill move on tomorrow or not, will wait and see how and if i sleep. Walked around the city of Bobo-Dioulasso today until I couldnt anymore and just collapsed in bed. Read a bit too. Pity I'm not 100 per cent as I'd have to say that this is the nicest city I've been to on the trip. Lots of trees, a great mud-sahlien style mosque, even a small but interesting museum. The museums in West Africa that I've seen have been pretty good. Just very under patronised.
There's a curious thing around Burkina Faso though, especially in Banfora but also here to a smaller extent. The kids mainly refer to whites as 'Les blanches' which is, white in French. But they say it at you as you walk past.... Why and with what motive I'm not sure. It's very unsettling after a while... I already knew I was white. And these places have plenty of expats and a few tourists, actually more here than I've seen in any other country which is surprising.
Then there's guides. You don't really need one, and the information they give you is well.... obvious anyways. I just had one follow me 500 metres down the street to this internet cafe. I said kindly I wasn't interested, explained I was leaving tomorrow, and still he hung around the door after I was inside. People don't take no for an answer and it gets exhausting. Then you have to balance it out with the poverty here. But those that seem really poor don't hassle you, and i generally give a few francs to.
Oh well, guess I won't be in Africa much longer, and they'll be some serious reflecting to do.......
im feeling so so folks.... not sure if ill move on tomorrow or not, will wait and see how and if i sleep. Walked around the city of Bobo-Dioulasso today until I couldnt anymore and just collapsed in bed. Read a bit too. Pity I'm not 100 per cent as I'd have to say that this is the nicest city I've been to on the trip. Lots of trees, a great mud-sahlien style mosque, even a small but interesting museum. The museums in West Africa that I've seen have been pretty good. Just very under patronised.
There's a curious thing around Burkina Faso though, especially in Banfora but also here to a smaller extent. The kids mainly refer to whites as 'Les blanches' which is, white in French. But they say it at you as you walk past.... Why and with what motive I'm not sure. It's very unsettling after a while... I already knew I was white. And these places have plenty of expats and a few tourists, actually more here than I've seen in any other country which is surprising.
Then there's guides. You don't really need one, and the information they give you is well.... obvious anyways. I just had one follow me 500 metres down the street to this internet cafe. I said kindly I wasn't interested, explained I was leaving tomorrow, and still he hung around the door after I was inside. People don't take no for an answer and it gets exhausting. Then you have to balance it out with the poverty here. But those that seem really poor don't hassle you, and i generally give a few francs to.
Oh well, guess I won't be in Africa much longer, and they'll be some serious reflecting to do.......
Friday, February 17, 2006
38.7 degrees
no that was not the outside temperature, that was my temperature. I know i havent posted in a while, ive been in hospital with (probably) malaria. a few days back the temperature begin to rise and a fever set in. I was in Banfora, where id taken an interesting tour earlier in the day with little clue as to what was coming next.
So anyways i was given some medication, and had a pretty dreadful night of little sleep. I wenr back for tests the next day and they came negative, but with the fever the doctors seemed sure it was malaria. I got so weak i could sit anymore with fever, and before i knew it I was on a bed.
It was pretty grim as hospitals go. The doctors dont seem to have those armstraps when taking injections and attaching drips, so they tied a rubber glove around my right arm and proceded to miss the vein altogether which rather smarted.
He returned with a light and with help of another PATIENT he got it right. Later in the evening another doctor managed to break two syringes (one not even out of the packet) and add the wrong mixture to the saline drip and had to trhow it out. Im not sure what was worse - the malaria or the hospital treatment. Then they locked the toilet during the night. Well that was pretty grim too....
oh well
so been recovering and moved on to Bobo Diolasso not sure if ill be heading to europe really soon or what just yet;... wont be much more than a week away though.
So anyways i was given some medication, and had a pretty dreadful night of little sleep. I wenr back for tests the next day and they came negative, but with the fever the doctors seemed sure it was malaria. I got so weak i could sit anymore with fever, and before i knew it I was on a bed.
It was pretty grim as hospitals go. The doctors dont seem to have those armstraps when taking injections and attaching drips, so they tied a rubber glove around my right arm and proceded to miss the vein altogether which rather smarted.
He returned with a light and with help of another PATIENT he got it right. Later in the evening another doctor managed to break two syringes (one not even out of the packet) and add the wrong mixture to the saline drip and had to trhow it out. Im not sure what was worse - the malaria or the hospital treatment. Then they locked the toilet during the night. Well that was pretty grim too....
oh well
so been recovering and moved on to Bobo Diolasso not sure if ill be heading to europe really soon or what just yet;... wont be much more than a week away though.
Sunday, February 12, 2006
Time for some more photos
Hello everyone. Well; having a bit of an easy sickie here in Ougadougou right now, hopefully should be right to move on tomorrow, so thought I'd upload a few more images as, well, it has been ages. 
This first one is a street scene just outside the Grand Marche in Niamey, Niger.
This is the Grand Mosque in Agadez, right in the middle of nowhere. I've met plenty of people going further into the desert mind you, but I reckon this is as remote as I'm getting. This trip at least. And yes, it is a bit, isn't it??
Ahhhh, Monsieur Camel I presume? These placid camels are at the animal market, Agadez, Niger.
I feel compelled to make interesting comments such as : 'Three heads are better than one?' A Voodoo statue on the Slave Route to the sea, Ouidah, Benin.
This one is from Lome, Togo where some kids were playing football in the centre of town. No, there isn't a lot of grass.
The stilit village of Ganvie, Benin.
Lome, Togo. Situated on a lovely looking (but apparently somewhat dangerous) beach. Well; hope they've been, well, liked....
This first one is a street scene just outside the Grand Marche in Niamey, Niger.
This is the Grand Mosque in Agadez, right in the middle of nowhere. I've met plenty of people going further into the desert mind you, but I reckon this is as remote as I'm getting. This trip at least. And yes, it is a bit, isn't it??
Ahhhh, Monsieur Camel I presume? These placid camels are at the animal market, Agadez, Niger.
I feel compelled to make interesting comments such as : 'Three heads are better than one?' A Voodoo statue on the Slave Route to the sea, Ouidah, Benin.
This one is from Lome, Togo where some kids were playing football in the centre of town. No, there isn't a lot of grass.
The stilit village of Ganvie, Benin.
Lome, Togo. Situated on a lovely looking (but apparently somewhat dangerous) beach. Well; hope they've been, well, liked....
Friday, February 10, 2006
Push Pineapple
Yesterday I arrived in Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso. A marathon journey had preceded the arrival, two days ago I left Agadez for Niamey at 7am in the morning, arriving twelve hours later. Then I 'slept' at the bus station and caught a 6am departure for Ouagadougou which got in at 2.30pm. So that was a lot of travelling for me.
Well; I was happy to leave Niger. Here the poverty is not nearly as obvious and people are generally friendly. The hassles appear to come from people trying to sell you things.
I have been tryng to work out if it's a government initiative in the whole region which has people out in the streets with lots of various goods to sell to anyone who walks or drives by. This includes shirts; clothes, shoes; sandles, medical tablets (I never knew there were so many brands of paracetamol in the world!!) perfume, and recharge cards for mobile phones. Yes, the mobile revolution is huge in West Africa!! Lots of people have them; seems to be far cheaper than the land lines.
Ouaga is much more laid out than other cities I visited, and laid back as well. It has a friendly vibe and is nice to walk around, found a place with half decent pizza as well...mmMMMMmmm pizza. Yes I seem to be having a better time now. But I'm off to a new town tomorrow. I get my Senegalaise visa this afternoon (touch wood) which is the last one I need and I'll be off to Banfora where I aim to relax for a couple of days, hire a mobylette and see the surrounding area....
Well; I was happy to leave Niger. Here the poverty is not nearly as obvious and people are generally friendly. The hassles appear to come from people trying to sell you things.
I have been tryng to work out if it's a government initiative in the whole region which has people out in the streets with lots of various goods to sell to anyone who walks or drives by. This includes shirts; clothes, shoes; sandles, medical tablets (I never knew there were so many brands of paracetamol in the world!!) perfume, and recharge cards for mobile phones. Yes, the mobile revolution is huge in West Africa!! Lots of people have them; seems to be far cheaper than the land lines.
Ouaga is much more laid out than other cities I visited, and laid back as well. It has a friendly vibe and is nice to walk around, found a place with half decent pizza as well...mmMMMMmmm pizza. Yes I seem to be having a better time now. But I'm off to a new town tomorrow. I get my Senegalaise visa this afternoon (touch wood) which is the last one I need and I'll be off to Banfora where I aim to relax for a couple of days, hire a mobylette and see the surrounding area....
Tuesday, February 07, 2006
A way away
Well a post has disappeared.... It wouldn't save a few days ago and now it's gone....
I noticed In Niamey all of a sudden how poor the place really was. In fact I suddenly realised that it was the poorest place I've ever been in my life. Perhaps when I left Australia I was prepared all ways but mentally. But in Niamey suddenly I was being followed everywhere by children asking for money, which I didn't really notice on the first day.
I had someone steal my mobile, but I got it back, on my second day in Niamey. There is famine here in Niger, and perhaps the city is overcrowded with people and beggars because of it. It has wide boulevards and nice buildings too.... but the poverty is inescapable.
The museum was rather small, and attached to the zoo. The animals were in resonalble condition I must admit, but their cages were generally far too small. Four vultures in a cage the size of my old backyard avairy says it all.
Then I fell sick and had made an amazing friend who lives in Niamey. I stayed with him a couple of nights before moving on here to Agadez. An amazing town almost exclusively mudbrick, not quite in the middle of the desert but not far from it. Over 900 km from Niamey, I am almost in the middle of the fat bit of Africa.
I visited an animal market with beaucoup de camels, there is an amazing mudbrick mosque in the centre of town, the steets are sandy and it has a wild frontier feel to it. I am heading back to Niamey tomorrow and onto a new country (Burkina Faso) on Thursday. Niger has certainly left a huge imprint on me, more than any country this trip.... not sure what it is yet...
I noticed In Niamey all of a sudden how poor the place really was. In fact I suddenly realised that it was the poorest place I've ever been in my life. Perhaps when I left Australia I was prepared all ways but mentally. But in Niamey suddenly I was being followed everywhere by children asking for money, which I didn't really notice on the first day.
I had someone steal my mobile, but I got it back, on my second day in Niamey. There is famine here in Niger, and perhaps the city is overcrowded with people and beggars because of it. It has wide boulevards and nice buildings too.... but the poverty is inescapable.
The museum was rather small, and attached to the zoo. The animals were in resonalble condition I must admit, but their cages were generally far too small. Four vultures in a cage the size of my old backyard avairy says it all.
Then I fell sick and had made an amazing friend who lives in Niamey. I stayed with him a couple of nights before moving on here to Agadez. An amazing town almost exclusively mudbrick, not quite in the middle of the desert but not far from it. Over 900 km from Niamey, I am almost in the middle of the fat bit of Africa.
I visited an animal market with beaucoup de camels, there is an amazing mudbrick mosque in the centre of town, the steets are sandy and it has a wild frontier feel to it. I am heading back to Niamey tomorrow and onto a new country (Burkina Faso) on Thursday. Niger has certainly left a huge imprint on me, more than any country this trip.... not sure what it is yet...
Friday, February 03, 2006
comments for all!!
hey everyone
a quick one to let you know i changed the settings and you should be able to comment without a blog. THANKS GREIG!
a quick one to let you know i changed the settings and you should be able to comment without a blog. THANKS GREIG!
A long trek Indeed
Back again. I have just completed two days of travel and I can tell you all that I`m a little bit hacked. Of course that may not surprise.
How can I describe the last two days?? Well I learnt one thing - time is a relative thing here in Africa, no-one seems to care about delays, the only time people move fast is actually on the road. I took the train to Parakou. It was no deluxe train, but it is the most comfortable transport I have had. It was due to leave at 8.30 AM, and left just after nine. Fine, not too bad. Half an hour of waiting is NOTHING. The coach was full of colour and frienly people chatting away the whole journey, yes it was quite fun. Outside remained green all the way; though there were lots of undergrowth fires for some reason. Controlled burning I believe.
People sold things at every little station, mostly off the top of their heads. However the scheduled arrival time of 5.25 was not met. We arrived just before 9PM, after scrambling some diary i tried to sleep.
The next day bang! up before 7, quick shower and at the share taxi station by 7.30AM. There was a taxi for Malanville at the ready. However it doesn't leave until it's full, which was around 10.30AM. I was told 4 hours. Five and a half later we are at Malanville, my right leg almost dead from cramp. The road was bad at first, but improved for the second half of the journey was much better, though I was the smallest of four in the back and was never comfortable.
At the border there were no problems, it was a pretty scene over a river, one border post at each end of the bridge. I was in Niger!! Tired and hungry but I had made it!
A moto took me to the taxi station there, a bus to the capital (mini bus) was waiting and half full!! I was sure we'd be away within the hour. More waiting ensued, three hours later we transfered to another mini bus, still at the same place and by 7PM we were on our way. Five minutes later we stopped for prayer. Ten minutes later on our way. Fifteen minutes later we stopped to help another minibus with a flat, ten minutes finally moving towards Niamey. All day I revised my expected arrival time. I left hopeful of 6PM, It kept getting later and later..
12.30 in the morning the next day We pulled into Niamey, I took a taxi to a hotel and fell asleep. Whats amazing is the way that almost noone gets annoyed at the constant delays, the police checks; people demanding to stop for food, the cows in the middle of the road, the hideous music... everyone seems to enjoy themselves. I was as tired as could be, but I accepted it... besides the frequent stops meant I could stretch my leg that was quite cramped....
Now I am in Niamey; already been to the Mali embassy where I will pick my visa up tomorrow. The weather is hot but dry which makes such a difference. The city is quite plesant, nicest so far with wide boulevards. Big place bit not so many people.... had a hamburger for lunch, my first proper meal since I left Cotonou....
How can I describe the last two days?? Well I learnt one thing - time is a relative thing here in Africa, no-one seems to care about delays, the only time people move fast is actually on the road. I took the train to Parakou. It was no deluxe train, but it is the most comfortable transport I have had. It was due to leave at 8.30 AM, and left just after nine. Fine, not too bad. Half an hour of waiting is NOTHING. The coach was full of colour and frienly people chatting away the whole journey, yes it was quite fun. Outside remained green all the way; though there were lots of undergrowth fires for some reason. Controlled burning I believe.
People sold things at every little station, mostly off the top of their heads. However the scheduled arrival time of 5.25 was not met. We arrived just before 9PM, after scrambling some diary i tried to sleep.
The next day bang! up before 7, quick shower and at the share taxi station by 7.30AM. There was a taxi for Malanville at the ready. However it doesn't leave until it's full, which was around 10.30AM. I was told 4 hours. Five and a half later we are at Malanville, my right leg almost dead from cramp. The road was bad at first, but improved for the second half of the journey was much better, though I was the smallest of four in the back and was never comfortable.
At the border there were no problems, it was a pretty scene over a river, one border post at each end of the bridge. I was in Niger!! Tired and hungry but I had made it!
A moto took me to the taxi station there, a bus to the capital (mini bus) was waiting and half full!! I was sure we'd be away within the hour. More waiting ensued, three hours later we transfered to another mini bus, still at the same place and by 7PM we were on our way. Five minutes later we stopped for prayer. Ten minutes later on our way. Fifteen minutes later we stopped to help another minibus with a flat, ten minutes finally moving towards Niamey. All day I revised my expected arrival time. I left hopeful of 6PM, It kept getting later and later..
12.30 in the morning the next day We pulled into Niamey, I took a taxi to a hotel and fell asleep. Whats amazing is the way that almost noone gets annoyed at the constant delays, the police checks; people demanding to stop for food, the cows in the middle of the road, the hideous music... everyone seems to enjoy themselves. I was as tired as could be, but I accepted it... besides the frequent stops meant I could stretch my leg that was quite cramped....
Now I am in Niamey; already been to the Mali embassy where I will pick my visa up tomorrow. The weather is hot but dry which makes such a difference. The city is quite plesant, nicest so far with wide boulevards. Big place bit not so many people.... had a hamburger for lunch, my first proper meal since I left Cotonou....
A long trek Indeed
Back again. I have just completed two days of travel and I can tell you all that I`m a little bit hacked. Of course that may not surprise.
How can I describe the last two days?? Well I learnt one thing - time is a relative thing here in Africa, no-one seems to care about delays, the only time people move fast is actually on the road. I took the train to Parakou. It was no deluxe train, but it is the most comfortable transport I have had. It was due to leave at 8.30 AM, and left just after nine. Fine, not too bad. Half an hour of waiting is NOTHING. The coach was full of colour and frienly people chatting away the whole journey, yes it was quite fun. Outside remained green all the way; though there were lots of undergrowth fires for some reason. Controlled burning I believe.
People sold things at every little station, mostly off the top of their heads. However the scheduled arrival time of 5.25 was not met. We arrived just before 9PM, after scrambling some diary i tried to sleep.
The next day bang! up before 7, quick shower and at the share taxi station by 7.30AM. There was a taxi for Malanville at the ready. However it doesn't leave until it's full, which was around 10.30AM. I was told 4 hours. Five and a half later we are at Malanville, my right leg almost dead from cramp. The road was bad at first, but improved for the second half of the journey was much better, though I was the smallest of four in the back and was never comfortable.
At the border there were no problems, it was a pretty scene over a river, one border post at each end of the bridge. I was in Niger!! Tired and hungry but I had made it!
A moto took me to the taxi station there, a bus to the capital (mini bus) was waiting and half full!! I was sure we'd be away within the hour. More waiting ensued, three hours later we transfered to another mini bus, still at the same place and by 7PM we were on our way. Five minutes later we stopped for prayer. Ten minutes later on our way. Fifteen minutes later we stopped to help another minibus with a flat, ten minutes finally moving towards Niamey. All day I revised my expected arrival time. I left hopeful of 6PM, It kept getting later and later..
12.30 in the morning the next day We pulled into Niamey, I took a taxi to a hotel and fell asleep. Whats amazing is the way that almost noone gets annoyed at the constant delays, the police checks; people demanding to stop for food, the cows in the middle of the road, the hideous music... everyone seems to enjoy themselves. I was as tired as could be, but I accepted it... besides the frequent stops meant I could stretch my leg that was quite cramped....
Now I am in Niamey; already been to the Mali embassy where I will pick my visa up tomorrow. The weather is hot but dry which makes such a difference. The city is quite plesant, nicest so far with wide boulevards. Big place bit not so many people.... had a hamburger for lunch, my first proper meal since I left Cotonou....
How can I describe the last two days?? Well I learnt one thing - time is a relative thing here in Africa, no-one seems to care about delays, the only time people move fast is actually on the road. I took the train to Parakou. It was no deluxe train, but it is the most comfortable transport I have had. It was due to leave at 8.30 AM, and left just after nine. Fine, not too bad. Half an hour of waiting is NOTHING. The coach was full of colour and frienly people chatting away the whole journey, yes it was quite fun. Outside remained green all the way; though there were lots of undergrowth fires for some reason. Controlled burning I believe.
People sold things at every little station, mostly off the top of their heads. However the scheduled arrival time of 5.25 was not met. We arrived just before 9PM, after scrambling some diary i tried to sleep.
The next day bang! up before 7, quick shower and at the share taxi station by 7.30AM. There was a taxi for Malanville at the ready. However it doesn't leave until it's full, which was around 10.30AM. I was told 4 hours. Five and a half later we are at Malanville, my right leg almost dead from cramp. The road was bad at first, but improved for the second half of the journey was much better, though I was the smallest of four in the back and was never comfortable.
At the border there were no problems, it was a pretty scene over a river, one border post at each end of the bridge. I was in Niger!! Tired and hungry but I had made it!
A moto took me to the taxi station there, a bus to the capital (mini bus) was waiting and half full!! I was sure we'd be away within the hour. More waiting ensued, three hours later we transfered to another mini bus, still at the same place and by 7PM we were on our way. Five minutes later we stopped for prayer. Ten minutes later on our way. Fifteen minutes later we stopped to help another minibus with a flat, ten minutes finally moving towards Niamey. All day I revised my expected arrival time. I left hopeful of 6PM, It kept getting later and later..
12.30 in the morning the next day We pulled into Niamey, I took a taxi to a hotel and fell asleep. Whats amazing is the way that almost noone gets annoyed at the constant delays, the police checks; people demanding to stop for food, the cows in the middle of the road, the hideous music... everyone seems to enjoy themselves. I was as tired as could be, but I accepted it... besides the frequent stops meant I could stretch my leg that was quite cramped....
Now I am in Niamey; already been to the Mali embassy where I will pick my visa up tomorrow. The weather is hot but dry which makes such a difference. The city is quite plesant, nicest so far with wide boulevards. Big place bit not so many people.... had a hamburger for lunch, my first proper meal since I left Cotonou....
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
spreading the guilt around
well im feeling like shit
today i went out to this village on stilts out in the middle of a lagoon called Ganvie around 20 kilometres from Cotonou. You get charged around fifteen Australian dollars to get taken around in a pirogue, which is a rather high price. No-one in the village is even vaguely hapy to see you... well hello! apparently their lives are a tourist attraction. But the people sailing and paddling the boat were nice.
I was hot, a little sunburnt and feeling a little ripped off so when I got off the boat I ignored the calls for a `cadeux`and just walked away. But those guys, I expect, don`t get a tenth of what I paid (neither, i expect, does Ganvie itself) someone else pockets most of it. I just shook the receipt saying i already paid and didnt look back. What an arsehole. And now Im using this blog to try and disperse my guilt. sigh. will resist the urge to publish several swear words.
Tomorrow its a train to Parakou, then bush taxi the next day to Niger.
today i went out to this village on stilts out in the middle of a lagoon called Ganvie around 20 kilometres from Cotonou. You get charged around fifteen Australian dollars to get taken around in a pirogue, which is a rather high price. No-one in the village is even vaguely hapy to see you... well hello! apparently their lives are a tourist attraction. But the people sailing and paddling the boat were nice.
I was hot, a little sunburnt and feeling a little ripped off so when I got off the boat I ignored the calls for a `cadeux`and just walked away. But those guys, I expect, don`t get a tenth of what I paid (neither, i expect, does Ganvie itself) someone else pockets most of it. I just shook the receipt saying i already paid and didnt look back. What an arsehole. And now Im using this blog to try and disperse my guilt. sigh. will resist the urge to publish several swear words.
Tomorrow its a train to Parakou, then bush taxi the next day to Niger.
Monday, January 30, 2006
Snakes alive...
hey everyone
I just lost my post so here goes. Again. Yesterday took share taxi from Lome to Cotonou, Benin. If you are interested in these countries I thoroughly recommend the destination guide at www.lonelyplanet.com
Anyways I have a damn nice room which I am pretty happy about, but I was even more happy to have lived through the taxi ride. Firstly i have to share the back seat with a girl and a man who took up half the back seat by himself. He then insisted on closing his window making breathing even harder, and seating even easier. The window was kinda broken, and an electric one, so the driver (who was involved in a shouting match with this man) pulled over in the middle of nowhere and some men fixed a battery up to the switch and the window whirred up. of course it didnt open again.
Passing at breakneck speed featured highly in this journey, and was not an easy feeling. Especially when we passed an accident scene where a van was completely crumpled. The man said ìts thank god everyday you survive on this road`or something to that effect.
We had two power outtages lasting a total of two hours last night, and today i visited Ouidah, where the history revolves both around slavery and voodoo. The museum was very interesting, one guy even spoke English. Barely coping with all the French here. Anyways, travel is on the back of a motorcycle here, and the drivers we had around town kept trying to up the price after it was agreed apon. This is often very exhausting, especially with no set prices.
The beach, where the slaves left from, is actually quite beautiful. Statues in the voodoo tradition line the road out to it.
Back in town is the python temple, where you get a very short tour and have to pay three times as much to take photographs. So you won`t see a picture with me holding a python round my neck (I was assured the teeth had been removed) so you`ll have to take my word that it happened.....
I just lost my post so here goes. Again. Yesterday took share taxi from Lome to Cotonou, Benin. If you are interested in these countries I thoroughly recommend the destination guide at www.lonelyplanet.com
Anyways I have a damn nice room which I am pretty happy about, but I was even more happy to have lived through the taxi ride. Firstly i have to share the back seat with a girl and a man who took up half the back seat by himself. He then insisted on closing his window making breathing even harder, and seating even easier. The window was kinda broken, and an electric one, so the driver (who was involved in a shouting match with this man) pulled over in the middle of nowhere and some men fixed a battery up to the switch and the window whirred up. of course it didnt open again.
Passing at breakneck speed featured highly in this journey, and was not an easy feeling. Especially when we passed an accident scene where a van was completely crumpled. The man said ìts thank god everyday you survive on this road`or something to that effect.
We had two power outtages lasting a total of two hours last night, and today i visited Ouidah, where the history revolves both around slavery and voodoo. The museum was very interesting, one guy even spoke English. Barely coping with all the French here. Anyways, travel is on the back of a motorcycle here, and the drivers we had around town kept trying to up the price after it was agreed apon. This is often very exhausting, especially with no set prices.
The beach, where the slaves left from, is actually quite beautiful. Statues in the voodoo tradition line the road out to it.
Back in town is the python temple, where you get a very short tour and have to pay three times as much to take photographs. So you won`t see a picture with me holding a python round my neck (I was assured the teeth had been removed) so you`ll have to take my word that it happened.....
Friday, January 27, 2006
onto Togo....
Well,
here I am in a new country Togo. If you are wondering it is a tiny slither of a country between Ghana and Benin, where I am heading tomorrow. Actually I dont mind it here, its actually quite pleasant, the rooms not too bad, the French speaking is taking a bit of getting used to but not as much as this darn keyboard, its all over the place. No idea how to do an apostrophe!!
The ride over from Accra was quite smooth, though the tro tro went to fast for my liking but at least half the road was in excellent condition. Border crossing was fine, had a nice Ghanian help me out and the supermarkets here are tres bon. In comparison that is. Lome is a small city situated right on the coast giving a refreshing afternoon seabreeze. Its more colonial in style than Accra, and generally has more style period I think. Yes, I like the place. Not a lot to see and do though and tmorrow I travel to Cotonou in Benin which is supposed to be crazy, but with some interesting day trips.
The final night in Accra was hell. The electricity died at about one thirty AM so my fan stopped whirring as it does. I had the room with one window less than a foot away from a concrete fence so there was no ventilation. Sleep was soon impossible. The electricity was still off when I left before 9am to Togo.
Still I survived yesterday. There are lovely palm trees along the beach and one might be fooled into believing this is a tropical paradise on the strength of photos, but the beaches are reportedly a little dangerous; especially at night.
People still try to sell you the same crap off the street as in Accra, however its Monsieur! and Mon Ami that they call out. Some of the building are surprisingly post modern here, theres plenty of air con... its a different place.
here I am in a new country Togo. If you are wondering it is a tiny slither of a country between Ghana and Benin, where I am heading tomorrow. Actually I dont mind it here, its actually quite pleasant, the rooms not too bad, the French speaking is taking a bit of getting used to but not as much as this darn keyboard, its all over the place. No idea how to do an apostrophe!!
The ride over from Accra was quite smooth, though the tro tro went to fast for my liking but at least half the road was in excellent condition. Border crossing was fine, had a nice Ghanian help me out and the supermarkets here are tres bon. In comparison that is. Lome is a small city situated right on the coast giving a refreshing afternoon seabreeze. Its more colonial in style than Accra, and generally has more style period I think. Yes, I like the place. Not a lot to see and do though and tmorrow I travel to Cotonou in Benin which is supposed to be crazy, but with some interesting day trips.
The final night in Accra was hell. The electricity died at about one thirty AM so my fan stopped whirring as it does. I had the room with one window less than a foot away from a concrete fence so there was no ventilation. Sleep was soon impossible. The electricity was still off when I left before 9am to Togo.
Still I survived yesterday. There are lovely palm trees along the beach and one might be fooled into believing this is a tropical paradise on the strength of photos, but the beaches are reportedly a little dangerous; especially at night.
People still try to sell you the same crap off the street as in Accra, however its Monsieur! and Mon Ami that they call out. Some of the building are surprisingly post modern here, theres plenty of air con... its a different place.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
Last day in Ghana, so some pics at last!
Well here they are finally, a few pics for everyone to enjoy!!! The first is one of the wonderful waterways of Accra... trying to capture the bad side of the city but don't know that I did. Actually not starting to mind this city, getting the hang of 'public transport', had roast chicken last night that didn't make me sick.. what can I say?? Just went to the Memorial park for Ghana's first Prime Minister - Ghana was the first African Nation to gain independence from their colonial occupiers so he's quite the hero here!!
Second pic is the fishing village of Elmina, the thrid (clockwise from top left) is the fort at Elmina, St George's fort, mostly in Dutch hands, the final is the 30 metre high walkway in Kakum National Park. Getting the pics on has been quite the effort!!
Tomorrow I'm off to Togo, barring bad things happening, for a short stop on the way to Benin. Niger looks likely at the moment. Yesterday visited the fine museum in Accra which displayed cloths - the patterns meaning a different quote. One read something like 'If you have more than your neighbour, he hates you...'
Second pic is the fishing village of Elmina, the thrid (clockwise from top left) is the fort at Elmina, St George's fort, mostly in Dutch hands, the final is the 30 metre high walkway in Kakum National Park. Getting the pics on has been quite the effort!!
Tomorrow I'm off to Togo, barring bad things happening, for a short stop on the way to Benin. Niger looks likely at the moment. Yesterday visited the fine museum in Accra which displayed cloths - the patterns meaning a different quote. One read something like 'If you have more than your neighbour, he hates you...'
Tuesday, January 24, 2006
Thinking Music Please
well
Accra has quickly gone up with delhi as one of the more oppressive cities i found to travel in, but like Delhi in 2004 seems i cant get away just yet. My 'visa touriste entente' for many countries isn't valid until the 26th so i have a couple more days here... so today's plan is to go back to the Date Hotel and update the diary and read some of the Order of the Pheonix with a plan to finish the book before it's out on film. Well it is a really long book. For a Harry Potter.
I've been wanting to write some sort of reflective piece for this blog for a couple of days. I even considered drafting it but then.... I didn't. It's very bizarre finally getting to Africa and finding myself reacting the way I have. Now the peanut allergy, for sure, has had a HUGE impact. For starters my diet has been well.. very limited out of paranoia. I have definately dropped a few kilos not from sickness, just have been eating not nearly as much as I am used. Bananas, bread and cheese, (bought a slice of ham today for around AUD 1.2o! can't wait to slip it into a roll) occasionally rice or pasta have been the diet. Did I mention I bought this very heavy electric stove? Still unused. But expect to use it when i am starving.... So the new route I'm taking is designed to keep me close (ish) to supermarkets.
I met an Australian last night and for some three hours we chatted about the region (he's sorta done my trip in reverse), cricket and tennis (Go Maria Sharapova!!!). Seems silly but thats what we chatted about and it was so nice to talk to an Aussie again. Only the second I've met here and the first lived her first 12 years in Canada. Travellers here are not that plentiful. The hotel has quite a few Nigerians, and there are a lot of Dutch roaming the country. But this isn'tike India or South East Asia in that respect, you do a lot of stuff on your own.
As you can tell with my frequent posting I've spent a fair bit of time on the internet. It's a bit of a haven really and I don't feel quite so isolated. Perhaps I'm not dealing with the stark reality outside the door, or maybe i just enjoy the air conditioning. It's really a situation where MOST Ghanians who talk to you in the street are after money from you. As a white person you are seen as a sign of wealth/money more than anywhere I've been.
Kids with the sheets have clearly been told to go up to foreigners and ask for money for their football club (You sign the sheet). The lack of actual shops means that a lot of stuff is just sold on the street, including Ghanian football guernseys (the African Nations Cup has justed started so everyone is keenly into that). The humidity is quite stifling though, but once I finally move north that will change. It will get hotter too, but a dry heat that will be easier to live with.
The (mostly) open sewers run along the side of the roads, also filled with rubbish as rubbish bins seem to be a rarity. Getting off the plane just over a week ago and into a taxi, whilst driving into town i had a beggar come up to me, i also had the same yesterday morning however that's been the only times. Generally the homeless seem to tired to beg.
Myself, with the humidity and lack of eating I feel tired quite a bit, especially today, but at least i can return to my hotel or fly out if i suddenly want to. And yet a great deal of the population are genuiunely friendly too. The tro tros are a bit of fun as well, when taking them around town. (less so over longer distances)
So there's a bit of thoughtfulness if anyone is reading. I know at least three people are thanks for commenting!!!! Still have to decide on Niger... also will TRY to get some photos up before leaving Ghana, if time permits and I can find a good place to do it!!!!
Accra has quickly gone up with delhi as one of the more oppressive cities i found to travel in, but like Delhi in 2004 seems i cant get away just yet. My 'visa touriste entente' for many countries isn't valid until the 26th so i have a couple more days here... so today's plan is to go back to the Date Hotel and update the diary and read some of the Order of the Pheonix with a plan to finish the book before it's out on film. Well it is a really long book. For a Harry Potter.
I've been wanting to write some sort of reflective piece for this blog for a couple of days. I even considered drafting it but then.... I didn't. It's very bizarre finally getting to Africa and finding myself reacting the way I have. Now the peanut allergy, for sure, has had a HUGE impact. For starters my diet has been well.. very limited out of paranoia. I have definately dropped a few kilos not from sickness, just have been eating not nearly as much as I am used. Bananas, bread and cheese, (bought a slice of ham today for around AUD 1.2o! can't wait to slip it into a roll) occasionally rice or pasta have been the diet. Did I mention I bought this very heavy electric stove? Still unused. But expect to use it when i am starving.... So the new route I'm taking is designed to keep me close (ish) to supermarkets.
I met an Australian last night and for some three hours we chatted about the region (he's sorta done my trip in reverse), cricket and tennis (Go Maria Sharapova!!!). Seems silly but thats what we chatted about and it was so nice to talk to an Aussie again. Only the second I've met here and the first lived her first 12 years in Canada. Travellers here are not that plentiful. The hotel has quite a few Nigerians, and there are a lot of Dutch roaming the country. But this isn'tike India or South East Asia in that respect, you do a lot of stuff on your own.
As you can tell with my frequent posting I've spent a fair bit of time on the internet. It's a bit of a haven really and I don't feel quite so isolated. Perhaps I'm not dealing with the stark reality outside the door, or maybe i just enjoy the air conditioning. It's really a situation where MOST Ghanians who talk to you in the street are after money from you. As a white person you are seen as a sign of wealth/money more than anywhere I've been.
Kids with the sheets have clearly been told to go up to foreigners and ask for money for their football club (You sign the sheet). The lack of actual shops means that a lot of stuff is just sold on the street, including Ghanian football guernseys (the African Nations Cup has justed started so everyone is keenly into that). The humidity is quite stifling though, but once I finally move north that will change. It will get hotter too, but a dry heat that will be easier to live with.
The (mostly) open sewers run along the side of the roads, also filled with rubbish as rubbish bins seem to be a rarity. Getting off the plane just over a week ago and into a taxi, whilst driving into town i had a beggar come up to me, i also had the same yesterday morning however that's been the only times. Generally the homeless seem to tired to beg.
Myself, with the humidity and lack of eating I feel tired quite a bit, especially today, but at least i can return to my hotel or fly out if i suddenly want to. And yet a great deal of the population are genuiunely friendly too. The tro tros are a bit of fun as well, when taking them around town. (less so over longer distances)
So there's a bit of thoughtfulness if anyone is reading. I know at least three people are thanks for commenting!!!! Still have to decide on Niger... also will TRY to get some photos up before leaving Ghana, if time permits and I can find a good place to do it!!!!
Monday, January 23, 2006
Tro tro troing
A tro tro is like a cramped mini bus that seats five people across and is as uncomfortable as possible. I journied back to Accra today in one of them and survived... wasnt all that bad really!!! Life goes on, Should be heading to Togo on Tuesday all going well touch wood...
yesterday i did a day trip to a place called Elmina, a delightful little fishing town (wish i could put some pics up for everyone) only 10 kms from Cape Coast where I spent the last four nights. There is another fort there, this one seemed bigger and had a better tour, and the whole place was really kind of nice.
Coming back to Accra i found myself not loathing it as much as last time. Maybe it's cos it's Sunday, or I know I'm only here to see the museum, get set and push on I'm not too sure.......
yesterday i did a day trip to a place called Elmina, a delightful little fishing town (wish i could put some pics up for everyone) only 10 kms from Cape Coast where I spent the last four nights. There is another fort there, this one seemed bigger and had a better tour, and the whole place was really kind of nice.
Coming back to Accra i found myself not loathing it as much as last time. Maybe it's cos it's Sunday, or I know I'm only here to see the museum, get set and push on I'm not too sure.......
Saturday, January 21, 2006
cape coast musings
well everyone
i have been really struggling here, feeling good one day and bad the next. thinking of getting out of africa, well i was yesterday, but now im thinking i still want to make it to Dakar some how, looks like ill try an abridged itinerary... though i havent exactly published it to anyone so you may not know the difference.
Going to try to get to Dakar by mid february now, not going to Niger.
anyways ive been in Cape Coast the last few days which is a much nicer place than Accra. Yesterday I took a day trip out to Kakum National Park which is set in a beautiful rain forest, and has a suspended walkway 30 metres above the forest floor. This has 7 sections, mostly around 50 metres long each. It's held up by cables which seem strong enough, however the mesh than holds rusty ladders with planks of wood on top seem anything but safe. This was very hairy, and my fear of heights did not help.
Today I'm off to Elmina for another day trip, where these is a caste/fort where slaves where shipped off to the new world from. I saw something similar here in Cape Coast a couple of days back... an eerie feeling indeed, and the waves truly crashed hard onto the rocks just outside the fort like i've never heard.... no idea how they sent ships through that. A ship out to sea struggled (lots of fishing ships) with its sail and mast which collapsed but i think they made it back alive....
i have been really struggling here, feeling good one day and bad the next. thinking of getting out of africa, well i was yesterday, but now im thinking i still want to make it to Dakar some how, looks like ill try an abridged itinerary... though i havent exactly published it to anyone so you may not know the difference.
Going to try to get to Dakar by mid february now, not going to Niger.
anyways ive been in Cape Coast the last few days which is a much nicer place than Accra. Yesterday I took a day trip out to Kakum National Park which is set in a beautiful rain forest, and has a suspended walkway 30 metres above the forest floor. This has 7 sections, mostly around 50 metres long each. It's held up by cables which seem strong enough, however the mesh than holds rusty ladders with planks of wood on top seem anything but safe. This was very hairy, and my fear of heights did not help.
Today I'm off to Elmina for another day trip, where these is a caste/fort where slaves where shipped off to the new world from. I saw something similar here in Cape Coast a couple of days back... an eerie feeling indeed, and the waves truly crashed hard onto the rocks just outside the fort like i've never heard.... no idea how they sent ships through that. A ship out to sea struggled (lots of fishing ships) with its sail and mast which collapsed but i think they made it back alive....
Thursday, January 19, 2006
A dose of stark reality
well okay everyone
here's a proper post from Ghana where the internet is frustrating at best. anyways I am into my fourth African day and i thought I'd be nice and honest (as well as not bothering to capitalise at points) and tell you boy has it been a tough slog. Apart from my severe peanut paranoia preventing me from trying, well, cooked food (boy have i had a few bananas), I have, for the first time since i hit India in 1999, really found things tough.
Accra is not a pretty city. Nor is it cool. Booking a bus ticket is a task in itself. One things Ghana seems to have going for it is that taxis are extremely frequent. But my room was grungy at best, i shared with a big spider... The heat and more to the point humidity is so oppresive. Fine when a breeze comes through, but when its still Oi vay!
I have just found it tough. I've actually met heaps of Ghanains who deserve their friendly reputation. I had to walk far too much which didn't help as i'm not eating nearly as much as normal. But despite the room quality I have slept a hell of a lot with three early nights.
I managed to get a visa which includes four of the french african countries I'll be visiting in around two hours from the Togolese embassy which was surprisingly efficient. And yesterday I was taken into Makola market by a very kind lady condsidering herself to be my Ghanain mother. I spent half the day sweating and playing Ludo.
I took the bus today to Cape Coast. As if booking the ticket wasn't hard enough, the bus left and hour and a half late. No airconditioning on this one and the road was EXCELLENT in places... and dreadful in others.
But my guest house here is cheaper and far nicer than the one in Accra, and the town is smaller and less crazy. The markets in Accra have to be seen to be believed.... so many people everywhere. whew!!!
and anyways..... whilst there is greenery everywhere, the poverty is almost as in your face as India or Bangladesh, and there are less structures. But the people so far make up for it. But i would be kidding if i didn't day I am finding life here a little incomprehensible.....
but i thought it might be more interesting to be honest rather than la la la this place is fun 24/7. After all it was my choice to come here.....
here's a proper post from Ghana where the internet is frustrating at best. anyways I am into my fourth African day and i thought I'd be nice and honest (as well as not bothering to capitalise at points) and tell you boy has it been a tough slog. Apart from my severe peanut paranoia preventing me from trying, well, cooked food (boy have i had a few bananas), I have, for the first time since i hit India in 1999, really found things tough.
Accra is not a pretty city. Nor is it cool. Booking a bus ticket is a task in itself. One things Ghana seems to have going for it is that taxis are extremely frequent. But my room was grungy at best, i shared with a big spider... The heat and more to the point humidity is so oppresive. Fine when a breeze comes through, but when its still Oi vay!
I have just found it tough. I've actually met heaps of Ghanains who deserve their friendly reputation. I had to walk far too much which didn't help as i'm not eating nearly as much as normal. But despite the room quality I have slept a hell of a lot with three early nights.
I managed to get a visa which includes four of the french african countries I'll be visiting in around two hours from the Togolese embassy which was surprisingly efficient. And yesterday I was taken into Makola market by a very kind lady condsidering herself to be my Ghanain mother. I spent half the day sweating and playing Ludo.
I took the bus today to Cape Coast. As if booking the ticket wasn't hard enough, the bus left and hour and a half late. No airconditioning on this one and the road was EXCELLENT in places... and dreadful in others.
But my guest house here is cheaper and far nicer than the one in Accra, and the town is smaller and less crazy. The markets in Accra have to be seen to be believed.... so many people everywhere. whew!!!
and anyways..... whilst there is greenery everywhere, the poverty is almost as in your face as India or Bangladesh, and there are less structures. But the people so far make up for it. But i would be kidding if i didn't day I am finding life here a little incomprehensible.....
but i thought it might be more interesting to be honest rather than la la la this place is fun 24/7. After all it was my choice to come here.....
Monday, January 16, 2006
Ghanain arrival
well, im tired as all buggery. I've finally hit sub-saharan africa here. I had a long long journey from hell but finally we touched down in Accra, capital of Ghana a few hours ago, got my self settled into a pretty divey sort of hotel, ate a pizza and at 5.30 am ready for sleep. well, in KL it is 1.30am and in melbourne 4.30. so yeah. there you go.
what else is there to tell you? not much. its an interesting place i guess yeah.will post more when ive slept some
take care
what else is there to tell you? not much. its an interesting place i guess yeah.will post more when ive slept some
take care
Saturday, January 14, 2006
monsoonal karaoke
Hey everyone
i've been trying to post with a different log in name which is very strange because it says that I have a different blog that i used in 2003 - however i have no recollection of this blog. But it signs in as my name so it is very strange. even with my password...... weird hey??
Anyways. Yes, the trip is under way. Its a warm morning in Singapore... I arrived a couple of days back and was greeted almost straight away by 24 hours of monsoonal rains. Interesting way to start off the trip.
Haven't done a hell of a lot since arriving apart from struggling to sleep, and some karaoke. I certainly have been getting down and jiggy with it so far on this trip. Tiger beer is gooooood :)
Found a nice little pub/karaoke place in Chinatown where me and a couple of friend became very popular straight away. We had a blast really!!!
Chinese New Year is the 29th of January I have been reliably informed but the celebrations have already started in earnest around here, Chinatown has decorations galore and laser light displays.
Anyways, today i take a long bus journey up to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia where i catch a flight to Accra Ghana, where the real adventure begins.
stay tuned....
i've been trying to post with a different log in name which is very strange because it says that I have a different blog that i used in 2003 - however i have no recollection of this blog. But it signs in as my name so it is very strange. even with my password...... weird hey??
Anyways. Yes, the trip is under way. Its a warm morning in Singapore... I arrived a couple of days back and was greeted almost straight away by 24 hours of monsoonal rains. Interesting way to start off the trip.
Haven't done a hell of a lot since arriving apart from struggling to sleep, and some karaoke. I certainly have been getting down and jiggy with it so far on this trip. Tiger beer is gooooood :)
Found a nice little pub/karaoke place in Chinatown where me and a couple of friend became very popular straight away. We had a blast really!!!
Chinese New Year is the 29th of January I have been reliably informed but the celebrations have already started in earnest around here, Chinatown has decorations galore and laser light displays.
Anyways, today i take a long bus journey up to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia where i catch a flight to Accra Ghana, where the real adventure begins.
stay tuned....
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)