well im feeling like shit
today i went out to this village on stilts out in the middle of a lagoon called Ganvie around 20 kilometres from Cotonou. You get charged around fifteen Australian dollars to get taken around in a pirogue, which is a rather high price. No-one in the village is even vaguely hapy to see you... well hello! apparently their lives are a tourist attraction. But the people sailing and paddling the boat were nice.
I was hot, a little sunburnt and feeling a little ripped off so when I got off the boat I ignored the calls for a `cadeux`and just walked away. But those guys, I expect, don`t get a tenth of what I paid (neither, i expect, does Ganvie itself) someone else pockets most of it. I just shook the receipt saying i already paid and didnt look back. What an arsehole. And now Im using this blog to try and disperse my guilt. sigh. will resist the urge to publish several swear words.
Tomorrow its a train to Parakou, then bush taxi the next day to Niger.
Tuesday, January 31, 2006
Monday, January 30, 2006
Snakes alive...
hey everyone
I just lost my post so here goes. Again. Yesterday took share taxi from Lome to Cotonou, Benin. If you are interested in these countries I thoroughly recommend the destination guide at www.lonelyplanet.com
Anyways I have a damn nice room which I am pretty happy about, but I was even more happy to have lived through the taxi ride. Firstly i have to share the back seat with a girl and a man who took up half the back seat by himself. He then insisted on closing his window making breathing even harder, and seating even easier. The window was kinda broken, and an electric one, so the driver (who was involved in a shouting match with this man) pulled over in the middle of nowhere and some men fixed a battery up to the switch and the window whirred up. of course it didnt open again.
Passing at breakneck speed featured highly in this journey, and was not an easy feeling. Especially when we passed an accident scene where a van was completely crumpled. The man said ìts thank god everyday you survive on this road`or something to that effect.
We had two power outtages lasting a total of two hours last night, and today i visited Ouidah, where the history revolves both around slavery and voodoo. The museum was very interesting, one guy even spoke English. Barely coping with all the French here. Anyways, travel is on the back of a motorcycle here, and the drivers we had around town kept trying to up the price after it was agreed apon. This is often very exhausting, especially with no set prices.
The beach, where the slaves left from, is actually quite beautiful. Statues in the voodoo tradition line the road out to it.
Back in town is the python temple, where you get a very short tour and have to pay three times as much to take photographs. So you won`t see a picture with me holding a python round my neck (I was assured the teeth had been removed) so you`ll have to take my word that it happened.....
I just lost my post so here goes. Again. Yesterday took share taxi from Lome to Cotonou, Benin. If you are interested in these countries I thoroughly recommend the destination guide at www.lonelyplanet.com
Anyways I have a damn nice room which I am pretty happy about, but I was even more happy to have lived through the taxi ride. Firstly i have to share the back seat with a girl and a man who took up half the back seat by himself. He then insisted on closing his window making breathing even harder, and seating even easier. The window was kinda broken, and an electric one, so the driver (who was involved in a shouting match with this man) pulled over in the middle of nowhere and some men fixed a battery up to the switch and the window whirred up. of course it didnt open again.
Passing at breakneck speed featured highly in this journey, and was not an easy feeling. Especially when we passed an accident scene where a van was completely crumpled. The man said ìts thank god everyday you survive on this road`or something to that effect.
We had two power outtages lasting a total of two hours last night, and today i visited Ouidah, where the history revolves both around slavery and voodoo. The museum was very interesting, one guy even spoke English. Barely coping with all the French here. Anyways, travel is on the back of a motorcycle here, and the drivers we had around town kept trying to up the price after it was agreed apon. This is often very exhausting, especially with no set prices.
The beach, where the slaves left from, is actually quite beautiful. Statues in the voodoo tradition line the road out to it.
Back in town is the python temple, where you get a very short tour and have to pay three times as much to take photographs. So you won`t see a picture with me holding a python round my neck (I was assured the teeth had been removed) so you`ll have to take my word that it happened.....
Friday, January 27, 2006
onto Togo....
Well,
here I am in a new country Togo. If you are wondering it is a tiny slither of a country between Ghana and Benin, where I am heading tomorrow. Actually I dont mind it here, its actually quite pleasant, the rooms not too bad, the French speaking is taking a bit of getting used to but not as much as this darn keyboard, its all over the place. No idea how to do an apostrophe!!
The ride over from Accra was quite smooth, though the tro tro went to fast for my liking but at least half the road was in excellent condition. Border crossing was fine, had a nice Ghanian help me out and the supermarkets here are tres bon. In comparison that is. Lome is a small city situated right on the coast giving a refreshing afternoon seabreeze. Its more colonial in style than Accra, and generally has more style period I think. Yes, I like the place. Not a lot to see and do though and tmorrow I travel to Cotonou in Benin which is supposed to be crazy, but with some interesting day trips.
The final night in Accra was hell. The electricity died at about one thirty AM so my fan stopped whirring as it does. I had the room with one window less than a foot away from a concrete fence so there was no ventilation. Sleep was soon impossible. The electricity was still off when I left before 9am to Togo.
Still I survived yesterday. There are lovely palm trees along the beach and one might be fooled into believing this is a tropical paradise on the strength of photos, but the beaches are reportedly a little dangerous; especially at night.
People still try to sell you the same crap off the street as in Accra, however its Monsieur! and Mon Ami that they call out. Some of the building are surprisingly post modern here, theres plenty of air con... its a different place.
here I am in a new country Togo. If you are wondering it is a tiny slither of a country between Ghana and Benin, where I am heading tomorrow. Actually I dont mind it here, its actually quite pleasant, the rooms not too bad, the French speaking is taking a bit of getting used to but not as much as this darn keyboard, its all over the place. No idea how to do an apostrophe!!
The ride over from Accra was quite smooth, though the tro tro went to fast for my liking but at least half the road was in excellent condition. Border crossing was fine, had a nice Ghanian help me out and the supermarkets here are tres bon. In comparison that is. Lome is a small city situated right on the coast giving a refreshing afternoon seabreeze. Its more colonial in style than Accra, and generally has more style period I think. Yes, I like the place. Not a lot to see and do though and tmorrow I travel to Cotonou in Benin which is supposed to be crazy, but with some interesting day trips.
The final night in Accra was hell. The electricity died at about one thirty AM so my fan stopped whirring as it does. I had the room with one window less than a foot away from a concrete fence so there was no ventilation. Sleep was soon impossible. The electricity was still off when I left before 9am to Togo.
Still I survived yesterday. There are lovely palm trees along the beach and one might be fooled into believing this is a tropical paradise on the strength of photos, but the beaches are reportedly a little dangerous; especially at night.
People still try to sell you the same crap off the street as in Accra, however its Monsieur! and Mon Ami that they call out. Some of the building are surprisingly post modern here, theres plenty of air con... its a different place.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
Last day in Ghana, so some pics at last!
Well here they are finally, a few pics for everyone to enjoy!!! The first is one of the wonderful waterways of Accra... trying to capture the bad side of the city but don't know that I did. Actually not starting to mind this city, getting the hang of 'public transport', had roast chicken last night that didn't make me sick.. what can I say?? Just went to the Memorial park for Ghana's first Prime Minister - Ghana was the first African Nation to gain independence from their colonial occupiers so he's quite the hero here!!
Second pic is the fishing village of Elmina, the thrid (clockwise from top left) is the fort at Elmina, St George's fort, mostly in Dutch hands, the final is the 30 metre high walkway in Kakum National Park. Getting the pics on has been quite the effort!!
Tomorrow I'm off to Togo, barring bad things happening, for a short stop on the way to Benin. Niger looks likely at the moment. Yesterday visited the fine museum in Accra which displayed cloths - the patterns meaning a different quote. One read something like 'If you have more than your neighbour, he hates you...'
Second pic is the fishing village of Elmina, the thrid (clockwise from top left) is the fort at Elmina, St George's fort, mostly in Dutch hands, the final is the 30 metre high walkway in Kakum National Park. Getting the pics on has been quite the effort!!
Tomorrow I'm off to Togo, barring bad things happening, for a short stop on the way to Benin. Niger looks likely at the moment. Yesterday visited the fine museum in Accra which displayed cloths - the patterns meaning a different quote. One read something like 'If you have more than your neighbour, he hates you...'
Tuesday, January 24, 2006
Thinking Music Please
well
Accra has quickly gone up with delhi as one of the more oppressive cities i found to travel in, but like Delhi in 2004 seems i cant get away just yet. My 'visa touriste entente' for many countries isn't valid until the 26th so i have a couple more days here... so today's plan is to go back to the Date Hotel and update the diary and read some of the Order of the Pheonix with a plan to finish the book before it's out on film. Well it is a really long book. For a Harry Potter.
I've been wanting to write some sort of reflective piece for this blog for a couple of days. I even considered drafting it but then.... I didn't. It's very bizarre finally getting to Africa and finding myself reacting the way I have. Now the peanut allergy, for sure, has had a HUGE impact. For starters my diet has been well.. very limited out of paranoia. I have definately dropped a few kilos not from sickness, just have been eating not nearly as much as I am used. Bananas, bread and cheese, (bought a slice of ham today for around AUD 1.2o! can't wait to slip it into a roll) occasionally rice or pasta have been the diet. Did I mention I bought this very heavy electric stove? Still unused. But expect to use it when i am starving.... So the new route I'm taking is designed to keep me close (ish) to supermarkets.
I met an Australian last night and for some three hours we chatted about the region (he's sorta done my trip in reverse), cricket and tennis (Go Maria Sharapova!!!). Seems silly but thats what we chatted about and it was so nice to talk to an Aussie again. Only the second I've met here and the first lived her first 12 years in Canada. Travellers here are not that plentiful. The hotel has quite a few Nigerians, and there are a lot of Dutch roaming the country. But this isn'tike India or South East Asia in that respect, you do a lot of stuff on your own.
As you can tell with my frequent posting I've spent a fair bit of time on the internet. It's a bit of a haven really and I don't feel quite so isolated. Perhaps I'm not dealing with the stark reality outside the door, or maybe i just enjoy the air conditioning. It's really a situation where MOST Ghanians who talk to you in the street are after money from you. As a white person you are seen as a sign of wealth/money more than anywhere I've been.
Kids with the sheets have clearly been told to go up to foreigners and ask for money for their football club (You sign the sheet). The lack of actual shops means that a lot of stuff is just sold on the street, including Ghanian football guernseys (the African Nations Cup has justed started so everyone is keenly into that). The humidity is quite stifling though, but once I finally move north that will change. It will get hotter too, but a dry heat that will be easier to live with.
The (mostly) open sewers run along the side of the roads, also filled with rubbish as rubbish bins seem to be a rarity. Getting off the plane just over a week ago and into a taxi, whilst driving into town i had a beggar come up to me, i also had the same yesterday morning however that's been the only times. Generally the homeless seem to tired to beg.
Myself, with the humidity and lack of eating I feel tired quite a bit, especially today, but at least i can return to my hotel or fly out if i suddenly want to. And yet a great deal of the population are genuiunely friendly too. The tro tros are a bit of fun as well, when taking them around town. (less so over longer distances)
So there's a bit of thoughtfulness if anyone is reading. I know at least three people are thanks for commenting!!!! Still have to decide on Niger... also will TRY to get some photos up before leaving Ghana, if time permits and I can find a good place to do it!!!!
Accra has quickly gone up with delhi as one of the more oppressive cities i found to travel in, but like Delhi in 2004 seems i cant get away just yet. My 'visa touriste entente' for many countries isn't valid until the 26th so i have a couple more days here... so today's plan is to go back to the Date Hotel and update the diary and read some of the Order of the Pheonix with a plan to finish the book before it's out on film. Well it is a really long book. For a Harry Potter.
I've been wanting to write some sort of reflective piece for this blog for a couple of days. I even considered drafting it but then.... I didn't. It's very bizarre finally getting to Africa and finding myself reacting the way I have. Now the peanut allergy, for sure, has had a HUGE impact. For starters my diet has been well.. very limited out of paranoia. I have definately dropped a few kilos not from sickness, just have been eating not nearly as much as I am used. Bananas, bread and cheese, (bought a slice of ham today for around AUD 1.2o! can't wait to slip it into a roll) occasionally rice or pasta have been the diet. Did I mention I bought this very heavy electric stove? Still unused. But expect to use it when i am starving.... So the new route I'm taking is designed to keep me close (ish) to supermarkets.
I met an Australian last night and for some three hours we chatted about the region (he's sorta done my trip in reverse), cricket and tennis (Go Maria Sharapova!!!). Seems silly but thats what we chatted about and it was so nice to talk to an Aussie again. Only the second I've met here and the first lived her first 12 years in Canada. Travellers here are not that plentiful. The hotel has quite a few Nigerians, and there are a lot of Dutch roaming the country. But this isn'tike India or South East Asia in that respect, you do a lot of stuff on your own.
As you can tell with my frequent posting I've spent a fair bit of time on the internet. It's a bit of a haven really and I don't feel quite so isolated. Perhaps I'm not dealing with the stark reality outside the door, or maybe i just enjoy the air conditioning. It's really a situation where MOST Ghanians who talk to you in the street are after money from you. As a white person you are seen as a sign of wealth/money more than anywhere I've been.
Kids with the sheets have clearly been told to go up to foreigners and ask for money for their football club (You sign the sheet). The lack of actual shops means that a lot of stuff is just sold on the street, including Ghanian football guernseys (the African Nations Cup has justed started so everyone is keenly into that). The humidity is quite stifling though, but once I finally move north that will change. It will get hotter too, but a dry heat that will be easier to live with.
The (mostly) open sewers run along the side of the roads, also filled with rubbish as rubbish bins seem to be a rarity. Getting off the plane just over a week ago and into a taxi, whilst driving into town i had a beggar come up to me, i also had the same yesterday morning however that's been the only times. Generally the homeless seem to tired to beg.
Myself, with the humidity and lack of eating I feel tired quite a bit, especially today, but at least i can return to my hotel or fly out if i suddenly want to. And yet a great deal of the population are genuiunely friendly too. The tro tros are a bit of fun as well, when taking them around town. (less so over longer distances)
So there's a bit of thoughtfulness if anyone is reading. I know at least three people are thanks for commenting!!!! Still have to decide on Niger... also will TRY to get some photos up before leaving Ghana, if time permits and I can find a good place to do it!!!!
Monday, January 23, 2006
Tro tro troing
A tro tro is like a cramped mini bus that seats five people across and is as uncomfortable as possible. I journied back to Accra today in one of them and survived... wasnt all that bad really!!! Life goes on, Should be heading to Togo on Tuesday all going well touch wood...
yesterday i did a day trip to a place called Elmina, a delightful little fishing town (wish i could put some pics up for everyone) only 10 kms from Cape Coast where I spent the last four nights. There is another fort there, this one seemed bigger and had a better tour, and the whole place was really kind of nice.
Coming back to Accra i found myself not loathing it as much as last time. Maybe it's cos it's Sunday, or I know I'm only here to see the museum, get set and push on I'm not too sure.......
yesterday i did a day trip to a place called Elmina, a delightful little fishing town (wish i could put some pics up for everyone) only 10 kms from Cape Coast where I spent the last four nights. There is another fort there, this one seemed bigger and had a better tour, and the whole place was really kind of nice.
Coming back to Accra i found myself not loathing it as much as last time. Maybe it's cos it's Sunday, or I know I'm only here to see the museum, get set and push on I'm not too sure.......
Saturday, January 21, 2006
cape coast musings
well everyone
i have been really struggling here, feeling good one day and bad the next. thinking of getting out of africa, well i was yesterday, but now im thinking i still want to make it to Dakar some how, looks like ill try an abridged itinerary... though i havent exactly published it to anyone so you may not know the difference.
Going to try to get to Dakar by mid february now, not going to Niger.
anyways ive been in Cape Coast the last few days which is a much nicer place than Accra. Yesterday I took a day trip out to Kakum National Park which is set in a beautiful rain forest, and has a suspended walkway 30 metres above the forest floor. This has 7 sections, mostly around 50 metres long each. It's held up by cables which seem strong enough, however the mesh than holds rusty ladders with planks of wood on top seem anything but safe. This was very hairy, and my fear of heights did not help.
Today I'm off to Elmina for another day trip, where these is a caste/fort where slaves where shipped off to the new world from. I saw something similar here in Cape Coast a couple of days back... an eerie feeling indeed, and the waves truly crashed hard onto the rocks just outside the fort like i've never heard.... no idea how they sent ships through that. A ship out to sea struggled (lots of fishing ships) with its sail and mast which collapsed but i think they made it back alive....
i have been really struggling here, feeling good one day and bad the next. thinking of getting out of africa, well i was yesterday, but now im thinking i still want to make it to Dakar some how, looks like ill try an abridged itinerary... though i havent exactly published it to anyone so you may not know the difference.
Going to try to get to Dakar by mid february now, not going to Niger.
anyways ive been in Cape Coast the last few days which is a much nicer place than Accra. Yesterday I took a day trip out to Kakum National Park which is set in a beautiful rain forest, and has a suspended walkway 30 metres above the forest floor. This has 7 sections, mostly around 50 metres long each. It's held up by cables which seem strong enough, however the mesh than holds rusty ladders with planks of wood on top seem anything but safe. This was very hairy, and my fear of heights did not help.
Today I'm off to Elmina for another day trip, where these is a caste/fort where slaves where shipped off to the new world from. I saw something similar here in Cape Coast a couple of days back... an eerie feeling indeed, and the waves truly crashed hard onto the rocks just outside the fort like i've never heard.... no idea how they sent ships through that. A ship out to sea struggled (lots of fishing ships) with its sail and mast which collapsed but i think they made it back alive....
Thursday, January 19, 2006
A dose of stark reality
well okay everyone
here's a proper post from Ghana where the internet is frustrating at best. anyways I am into my fourth African day and i thought I'd be nice and honest (as well as not bothering to capitalise at points) and tell you boy has it been a tough slog. Apart from my severe peanut paranoia preventing me from trying, well, cooked food (boy have i had a few bananas), I have, for the first time since i hit India in 1999, really found things tough.
Accra is not a pretty city. Nor is it cool. Booking a bus ticket is a task in itself. One things Ghana seems to have going for it is that taxis are extremely frequent. But my room was grungy at best, i shared with a big spider... The heat and more to the point humidity is so oppresive. Fine when a breeze comes through, but when its still Oi vay!
I have just found it tough. I've actually met heaps of Ghanains who deserve their friendly reputation. I had to walk far too much which didn't help as i'm not eating nearly as much as normal. But despite the room quality I have slept a hell of a lot with three early nights.
I managed to get a visa which includes four of the french african countries I'll be visiting in around two hours from the Togolese embassy which was surprisingly efficient. And yesterday I was taken into Makola market by a very kind lady condsidering herself to be my Ghanain mother. I spent half the day sweating and playing Ludo.
I took the bus today to Cape Coast. As if booking the ticket wasn't hard enough, the bus left and hour and a half late. No airconditioning on this one and the road was EXCELLENT in places... and dreadful in others.
But my guest house here is cheaper and far nicer than the one in Accra, and the town is smaller and less crazy. The markets in Accra have to be seen to be believed.... so many people everywhere. whew!!!
and anyways..... whilst there is greenery everywhere, the poverty is almost as in your face as India or Bangladesh, and there are less structures. But the people so far make up for it. But i would be kidding if i didn't day I am finding life here a little incomprehensible.....
but i thought it might be more interesting to be honest rather than la la la this place is fun 24/7. After all it was my choice to come here.....
here's a proper post from Ghana where the internet is frustrating at best. anyways I am into my fourth African day and i thought I'd be nice and honest (as well as not bothering to capitalise at points) and tell you boy has it been a tough slog. Apart from my severe peanut paranoia preventing me from trying, well, cooked food (boy have i had a few bananas), I have, for the first time since i hit India in 1999, really found things tough.
Accra is not a pretty city. Nor is it cool. Booking a bus ticket is a task in itself. One things Ghana seems to have going for it is that taxis are extremely frequent. But my room was grungy at best, i shared with a big spider... The heat and more to the point humidity is so oppresive. Fine when a breeze comes through, but when its still Oi vay!
I have just found it tough. I've actually met heaps of Ghanains who deserve their friendly reputation. I had to walk far too much which didn't help as i'm not eating nearly as much as normal. But despite the room quality I have slept a hell of a lot with three early nights.
I managed to get a visa which includes four of the french african countries I'll be visiting in around two hours from the Togolese embassy which was surprisingly efficient. And yesterday I was taken into Makola market by a very kind lady condsidering herself to be my Ghanain mother. I spent half the day sweating and playing Ludo.
I took the bus today to Cape Coast. As if booking the ticket wasn't hard enough, the bus left and hour and a half late. No airconditioning on this one and the road was EXCELLENT in places... and dreadful in others.
But my guest house here is cheaper and far nicer than the one in Accra, and the town is smaller and less crazy. The markets in Accra have to be seen to be believed.... so many people everywhere. whew!!!
and anyways..... whilst there is greenery everywhere, the poverty is almost as in your face as India or Bangladesh, and there are less structures. But the people so far make up for it. But i would be kidding if i didn't day I am finding life here a little incomprehensible.....
but i thought it might be more interesting to be honest rather than la la la this place is fun 24/7. After all it was my choice to come here.....
Monday, January 16, 2006
Ghanain arrival
well, im tired as all buggery. I've finally hit sub-saharan africa here. I had a long long journey from hell but finally we touched down in Accra, capital of Ghana a few hours ago, got my self settled into a pretty divey sort of hotel, ate a pizza and at 5.30 am ready for sleep. well, in KL it is 1.30am and in melbourne 4.30. so yeah. there you go.
what else is there to tell you? not much. its an interesting place i guess yeah.will post more when ive slept some
take care
what else is there to tell you? not much. its an interesting place i guess yeah.will post more when ive slept some
take care
Saturday, January 14, 2006
monsoonal karaoke
Hey everyone
i've been trying to post with a different log in name which is very strange because it says that I have a different blog that i used in 2003 - however i have no recollection of this blog. But it signs in as my name so it is very strange. even with my password...... weird hey??
Anyways. Yes, the trip is under way. Its a warm morning in Singapore... I arrived a couple of days back and was greeted almost straight away by 24 hours of monsoonal rains. Interesting way to start off the trip.
Haven't done a hell of a lot since arriving apart from struggling to sleep, and some karaoke. I certainly have been getting down and jiggy with it so far on this trip. Tiger beer is gooooood :)
Found a nice little pub/karaoke place in Chinatown where me and a couple of friend became very popular straight away. We had a blast really!!!
Chinese New Year is the 29th of January I have been reliably informed but the celebrations have already started in earnest around here, Chinatown has decorations galore and laser light displays.
Anyways, today i take a long bus journey up to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia where i catch a flight to Accra Ghana, where the real adventure begins.
stay tuned....
i've been trying to post with a different log in name which is very strange because it says that I have a different blog that i used in 2003 - however i have no recollection of this blog. But it signs in as my name so it is very strange. even with my password...... weird hey??
Anyways. Yes, the trip is under way. Its a warm morning in Singapore... I arrived a couple of days back and was greeted almost straight away by 24 hours of monsoonal rains. Interesting way to start off the trip.
Haven't done a hell of a lot since arriving apart from struggling to sleep, and some karaoke. I certainly have been getting down and jiggy with it so far on this trip. Tiger beer is gooooood :)
Found a nice little pub/karaoke place in Chinatown where me and a couple of friend became very popular straight away. We had a blast really!!!
Chinese New Year is the 29th of January I have been reliably informed but the celebrations have already started in earnest around here, Chinatown has decorations galore and laser light displays.
Anyways, today i take a long bus journey up to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia where i catch a flight to Accra Ghana, where the real adventure begins.
stay tuned....
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