Cameroonian Beauty....

Alas.... Photos are not going to happen here I fear. After discovering a mass of viruses on my SD I was able to clean them off but my photo files remain hidden. Perhaps there is something I can do later for my next post in Cameroon. Land of infurating internet!

But let me tell you of the last few days at least. Sadly, this is one place where the photos would have spoken volumes. I took a bus ride to Kribi, in the south and on the coast after two short nights in Douala. Kribi is a nice little town with perhaps only one decent restaurant and some nice beaches. The bus ride was predictable for Africa, full of colour and life, talking, excitment, through some amazingly thick forest - make that true African jungle! So exciting! The only draw back was really the fact that no-one was keen for windows to be open much, and so a fair bit of sweating ensued.
Kribi is in the French speaking part of the country - which in fairness is most of it. The room opened out on the Atlantic ocean, and so the location made up for the plainess of the room and the mosquitoes (I am reliably informed there is little malaria at this time of years by locals. Well, it will prove reliable if I don't get it again!), but not for the price. I am finding accommodation in particular much more expensive here than in other parts of West Africa I have visited. Half the daily budget just disappears to it!
Anyways. I am travelling with a friend now which makes it easier and well, affordable. My budget would be shot if I was on my own! We journied around 8km south of Kribi one day to see the Lobe waterfalls, very pretty and on the beach. Lots of fishing boats around as well, lots of interesting lizards and remarkably large bats also!
Then we took a pirogue ride to what we were told is a pygmy village along the Lobe river. The trees were up to 30 metres high at a guess, and the sounds of the jungle provided an amazing soundtrack to our boat journey. However, the village was small and everyone was out on a hunt! I must an ignoramus, but I thought Pygmies were short of stature. Not at this village...

Yesterday we took a bus back to Douala, shared with chickens and some boxes of fish in the hold that leaked water and now our bags have a wonderful fishy aroma... it's not too bad, definitely faded considerably over night.
We braved the slow moving Douala traffic and now we are in Limbe, near the largest mountain in this region - Mount Cameroon. It pelted rain last night but no mosquito bites = good night. We can see oil rigs not far at all from shore, the hills are amazing but the clouds are low and we can't see far. It is very humid here too. But beautiful.
Also, not so far from the Nigerian border, we are in the Anglophone part of the country - yes, English is the main language. This morning a visit to the Botanical Gardens. Not so amazing really, a few cool trees and interesting plants, but also far too many mosquitoes!
So from here we should see Mount Cameroon tomorrow, and then we are moving about every day or two trying to cram as much into my final week as I can!
hopefully I can update soon! Au Revoir for now!

From Uzbekistan to Cameroon. You read right!

The joys of African computers an internet have already struck – I lost the whole post.

Annoying when you consider I have to traverse the Fench keyboard too! Still, somehow I have gone Asia - Europe - Africa in a blink of an eye!

Here I am in Kribi, Cameroon, a few days and a lot of miles from where I last blogged, Uzbekistan. So anyways, since I last blogged from Tashkent, I went to the airport where the security guards searched for extra Euros they were sure I was carrying, hopped on a plane to Riga, Latvia. The flight was fine, five hours over night. Cold have done with more sleep though!

Then at Riga airport everyone was searched thoroughly after getting off the plane. Riga airport was confusing, having to be bussed a very short distance to the next terminal. No explanation about how and where to get the bus from though! So five hours in Riga airport…. Not a lot to do let me tell you.



I had two nights in London, and then three days ago now up at five am to catch a flight via Zurich to Douala, Cameroon. A packed fight with lots of children. Still, we touched down safely in Douala. It has a bad rep for being crazy and even a little dangerous, but I found it quite chilled and laid back. Not a bad place, especially compared to say, Accra.



In fact, that’s Cameroon. Not a lot to see or do, but relax and ejoy the vive. There was a band outside the airport playing West African vibes, so awesome and chilled. Weather? Mid twenties, humid, but sea breeze helps.



Yesterday I took an African bus-ride here to the chilled and pretty town of Kribi. The bus had people standing in the aisle, animated discussion, it was brilliant! The scenery is almost jungle, dense green forest. Rivers, good roads, friendly people. And nw I am in a beachside hotel where I can hear the Atlantic Ocean pound the shore all night long.



Who could ask for more?

The Rue De Libertè, Douala

View from my hotel, Kribi.

Last days of Central Asia - Tashkent, Uzbekistan.

So folks, thanks for taking this Central Asia ride with me. In a few hours I head to Tashkent airport where I will board an Air Baltic flight via Riga to London. I will be in a different part of the world, a new section to my journey in 2011 will begin. 

After two short days in London I will be heading for two weeks in Cameroon, West Africa. It's strange how despite my first expereinces of sub-saharan Africa, I still head back there every trip.

Kulkedash Medressa.

 For now though, I need to reflect on Tashkent. It's quite a city to be honest. At around three million people it is the biggest city (population-wise) that I have visited in Central Asia. It has wide streets and fast cars and my guesthouse had one of the most beautiful simple rooms I have had all journey.

This dome is just part of the giant Chorsu Bazaar.

 Tashkent seems to follow a grand vision that the President, Islam Karimov, has for the country. Big and impressive. This is rather similar to his Kazakh counter-part, Nazabaev, although I believe they don't get on! But Tashkent is not just big and wide, it's also pretty clean, and from the outside at least, it looks rather modern. The obsession with blue (and near-blue) domes continues, there's a museum devoted to Timur himself. Inside there's a quote from Karimov. I won't try and repeat it, because I can't remember it word for word, but it says that anyone wondering about the might and power of the Uzbek people, should look to Timur to understand why they are so. (yes I paraphrase rather poorly)

Timur Museum, not the jade-coloured dome!

 The Central Museum is rather interesting, at least on the top floor. If you are like me, you are more interested in the last 100 years than the 60 million that preceded them. Perhaps this is because it is more relatable to the country I see today. Then again, if you are an archeologist like someone I met here at the guesthouse, you may indeed enjoy you prehistoric pots! Lots of information on Soviet times, not so much in English though. And looking to the future, thanks to oil oil oil!
A few choice Karimov quotes too. Can't miss out on those. A big TV tower was built in Tashkent in 1928, sending signals out 100km today. That seems really early for television, 1928. Then again, it only came to my country, Australia, in 1956. Rather slow really... It seems that television signals were first experimented by a Russian scientist in 1907. You learn something new every day!

Fountains and Tashkent Life.

 Many monuments and statues around town, including a weeping mother which apparently features in many Uzbek cities. She is weeping, I believe, of ones lost in war. Fountains also play a huge role in Uzbek lives here. As in many places I have seen in Central Asia, they double as swimming pools. It is pretty hot here!

Assumption Cathedral.

Other highlights include the bustling Chorsu Bazaar where you can get most anything. Except for a connector USB cable for my camera it seems! There is a beautiful Orthodox Church, Assumption Cathedral, in the midst of renovations. And then the Kukedash Medressa, a quiet little function Islamic school but very pretty near Chorsu Bazaar. Have I left anything out? I'm sure I have, but that is Tashkent and Central Asia.
Amazing, different places yet, but fascinating.

Before I go, I want to talk briefly about the police here in Central Asia. I was warned by people and especially the guidebook before I go that they would be the biggest problem in Central Asia. They would take my passport and not give it back until I bribed them, they treat foreigners poorly. Some horror stories. Well, touch wood & inshallah, I have less than half a day left and the worst thing I can say is they were curious about my passport, its stamps, Australia and me. They were also friendly. I had no issues whatsoever. Yes I was very careful to make sure all my documents were correct and registered where needed, BUT I have nothing but thanks and respect for the police doing there job in this part of the world. Tashkent went through a series of terrorist attacks back in the late 90s and early 00s but has been very safe since then.
Police of Central Asia - I salute you!

A Brief Essay on Uzbekistan

Statue of Timur the Great, Samarkand.

 Central Asia has some enigmatic states. Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan (which I am not visiting. This trip at least) and even Uzbekistan. A country who reveres an historical figure, the all-conquering Amir Timur, more than anyone or thing else. Nevermind that he lived over six hundred years ago, the guy went on a rampage conquering Iran, Iraq, parts of Turkey and India and the Cacaucus as well. For a reasonably small state as Uzbekistan, that's not a bad effort.
Then he set about building one of the most beautiful cities on the Silk Road in Samarkand. I'm starting to revere him a bit myself. He was lame in one leg and 1.7 metres tall - shorter than me. Maybe I too can conquer a few places. But, I don't believe I exagerate, he has acheived deity-like status in Uzbekistan.
It is a country hounded by Mongols and Genghis Khan, Russians and Soviets too. Timur represents the tim they were top of the heap.
Today his spirit is everywhere. A great man casts his shadow over a country that has some reasonably bureaucratic visa laws, and a President, Karimov, who would like to be as enigmatic and great as Timur is.
A wealth of resources and the added bonuses gained by letting the US on your soil (and then kicking them out) gives the impression that Uzbekistan is reasonably prosperous, espeically in the region. There are lots of new buildings everywhere I went. Tashkent gleams, and parts of Samarkand shine, although other older parts hide behind much more recent walls.
The Russian language and alphabet are slowly on the way out. The Uzbek identity is rising strongly. The money is insane. The biggest note one can get is 1000 som. This is roughly 40 US cents. So when one changes 100 dollars you have so much cash finding enough places to hide it is a major challenge! The black market is used by everyone. One gets 2400 per dollar on the black market the official rate is around 1700. Every night you spend has to be registered on a slip and possibly shown as you exit the country, depending on the whims of the border guards.
The climate is insane. In Bukhara I encountered 40 deree maximums, it gets in excess of fifty late July and August! But in the winter I was told there is a metre of snow in the streets! Minus 20 is not uncommon! How do they cope?
I haven't seen a cavalcade of pictures of Karimov, but I hear he is not disimmilar to Nazabaev of Kazakhstan fame. Opposition parties are generally not allowed and usually he wins impossibly high proportions of the vote when elections are held. But Uzbekistan is doing ok right now, so people are reasonably happy!
Central Asia is a fascinating area of the world. I have less than two days here before I must depart. The trip now turns to a couple of days in London, then Cameroon. Then to Europe.
Every place is special and unique in its own right. To imagine what it's like to live here though, that is still beyond me!

Please enjoy pictures of the Registan in Samarkand below. Tomorrow I shall blog about Tashkent, the Uzbek capital. Thanks for reading.

Land of the Blue Domes and much much more - Samarkand.

The Uzbek summer rolls on! The weather doesn't get much cooler, and the trains are a nightmare. But the sights are amazing and worth seeing. Note to self: if I ever go back to Uzbekistan, don't go in Summer!

Samarkand lies around three hours back in the direction of Tashkent, relative to Bukhara. Here they have what they claim to be 'fast trains', however, they tend to get to their destination around an hour late with surprising regularity. The big issue, however, is the temperature. There we are, stuck in the carriage, whilst the TV blares some Uzbek movie, and no proper windows to open, no working air conditioning. Not just me, the entire train are suffering. Today I returned by train (why did I do that?) to Tashkent. There were grown men with no shirts on. If I wasn't so modest I would have joined them.

 But to Samarkand. This ancient capital is the city of Timur the Great, a lame short man who conquered half the Eastern World in the late 14th century. Impressed? They certainly are here. Much of the architecture dates back to this time, and the three or four centuries that followed. The Registan is one of the principal attractions in Samarkand. Three large medressas that face in to each other. I will put the photos up on the next post as they are on a different flashcard to those appearing in this post. Large, serene, featuring blue domes. There really is a feeling of Iran here.
Blue domes are a popular theme with all the medressas and Mosques of ancient Uzbekistan. The Bibi-Kanum Mosque is an example of that, one of the oldest and at one stage (if my guidebook is to be believed) the largest in the Islamic world (we are talking a few centuries back now).

 Shah-i-Zinda is something rather special. It's a series of tombs along an avenue. You can go inside a few of them, with simple markers for the grave but incredible delicate decorcations on the upper walls and inner domes. A very revered sight for Uzbek Muslims, it is set on a hill surrounded by a much more recent cemetry. Possibly the highlight of a town strewn with amazing Islamic architecture.

Finally I visited the above Mausoleum of Timur himself, buried with his two sons and his successor, Ulugbek, a ruler and an astronomer. The Lonely Planet describes the tomb as understated. Hmmmm, well, I can't agree. Inside the decorcation in gold, blue and black was incredible. Inside the tomb many people pray, hands open palm up, to Timur. Not to God, to Timur. He is a seriously revered figure.

One story I have read and heard. When a Soviet archologist in 1941 open Timur's tomb and found his remains he found an inscription. "Whom so ever opens this tomb will be defeated by an enemy far greater than me'. The next day Hitler invaded the Soviet Union.

Well, it's an interesting tale, isn't it?
Next time I hope to write a little about Uzbekistan as a place, an entity.
No flipping!

Not Quite Bustling Bukhara

So, there are tourists in Central Asia! Yes, I found them here in Bukhara. The old town and tourist part is very Middle Eastern, reminding me of Iran, although the other parts are more Russian.  It's an interesting place for a day or two. There is a nice central square where a restaurant served me a feast for around seven dollars. Much more pleasant and alive at night though, I met some people from a German tour group, also there are a few French ones about the place as well. I saw maybe three tourists in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan I met a few backpackers from different places. But here is of more interest to the typical tourist. I will also add that I haven't met an Australian since I have been in Central Asia - that's a month now. 

 The old town is filled with mosques, minarets and medressas (Islamic schools), some still working, some not. The blue mosaics of Iran are in prominence here, there is a Sufi influence such as can be seen at Uch Shariff in Pakistan. It's fair to say that after being in the other two 'Stan's, Bukhara is a different world. Except you can still find Shaslyck wherever you go! (and however you spell it too)

A Bukaran Medressa.

 The Kalon Mosque and Minaret are possibly the most stunning features here, the pictures tell the tale far better than I did. All I can say is that I walked around the city in the forty degree heat and after four hours I was well and truly cooked. However, the Kalon Mosque was peaceful and quiet and a nice place to sit and reflect for a while.

A view from afar of the Kalon Mosque and Minaret.

Ancient Bukhara was a city on the Silk road which saw goods travel from Asia to Europe. In these days the citadel (known as the 'Ark') was the seat of power. However, it was mostly destroyed by the Soviets in around 1920. Now partially restored, it houses several little museums including, which showcase old coins, photos, pottery and the like. Most interesting is the collection of large Samovars. Each little museum has one on display, and each one seemed just that little bigger than the previous! Not very middle eastern and belonging to the period of the Soviet Union, but I find these things amusing!

The walls of 'The Ark'.

One of the many grand Samovars!

So that's Bukhara. Also there are many little mini-bazaars, now seemingly only stocking souvenirs. If you are souvenir hunting, this is your place! They are usually under domes, some are quite interesting. Tomorrow, to Samarkand!

Domes, under which lies a small Bazaar.

Photos from the four day journey

Yes I said it was three days yesterday, but if you add the 15km I walked from Altyn Arashan... It's four days of travel!

The trail down from Altyn Arashan, via Ak Suu, to Karakol.

Through the window of the taxi, Taraz to Skymkent

From Shymkent to Tashkent and Uzbekistan border.

And, after the train journey yesterday I can stop for a day - Bukhara, Uzbekistan!

Three countries, one day, the journey continues!

Dear highly devoted reader,

You find your intreped traveller (ie me) in Bukhara, Uzbeksitan. Since I last blogged I have travelled, by land, over 1500km. So yes, that's some travelling!
I left Karakol on Saturday morning, the 11th of June 2011. Twas a warm morning to make the trek along Lake Issyk Kol back to Bishkek. The mini van sped along the road I had previously taken in the other direction until arriving in Bishkek late afternoon.
Journey One, done!
Sleeping in Bishkek proved a challenge and a half. For starters, there was a bit of a party going on. Secondly, the room was too hot to sleep in unless I left the window open. Thirdly, dogs were a-barking like it was a full moon or something. It wasn't. The window open meant lots of noise, closed and I was sweating like crazy!

That said, I managed 5-6 hours, and in the morn headed to the mini-bus station where I found me a steed to go forth to a place called Taraz in Kazakhstan. To get to Uzbekistan, the easiest way was through Kazakhstan, although no direct options exist at present. Luckily I had a double-entry Kazakh visa - I planned ahead!
The little mini-van was hot, and is custom in these parts windows are just not opened, so it means hot and stuffy all the way. The border crossing was simple and efficient thankfully. We sped on and arrived in Taraz at 3 pm or so.
I was swiftly shifted from one taxi to another. We were off through the steppe again towards Shymkent. A rural area of Kazakhstan, full of animals who seem to know no fear of vehicles, wondering out onto the road whenever they like.

The occasional radar and speed camera also in Kazakhstan as we skirted the southern border. I met a great guy in this shared taxi ride, his name is Sergey and he would help me across the border. We were both going in the same direction - to Tashkent!
So in Shymkent we were able to share a taxi to the border of Uzbekistan. I had heard that Uzbek border officials can be pushy, ask for bribes or hold you up for hours. I can't say I had an issue, although the customs form was only in Russian and Uzbek, and without Sergey it would have taken me a long time!

We sped into Tashkent, Uzbekistan was the third country of the day. It was around 8pm, although Uzbekistan is an hour behind Kazakhstan and Kyrgystan, so it had taken around 12 hours all up. I then had a free place and great hospitality for the night, Sergey invited me to stay the night there. I have NEVER depended on the kindness of strangers, but it's a great thing.

And today I took the fast train another 550km or so to Bukhara. I am now in a cross between the Middle East, Pakistan and Russia. I took the train - 7 hours or so, and stiflingly hot in there here. It was around 40 degrees today.
So that's a lot of travelling, a lot of kilometres. Tomorrow I get to see some sights!

Finally, a quick apology - not able to load pics here, I will try a different internet cafe next time, hopefully with more luck!

Karakol Capers, Altyn Arashan and some serious Mountains

I have spent the last few days in the east of northern Kyrgystan and it's certainly an amazing part of the region. Karakol is a bit of a mountain-frontier town at the eastern end of the Lake Issyk Kol. This large lake in itself is amazing - 170km long and up to 70km wide, the second largest alpine lake in the world.

It was a six hour bus ride here past the northern edge of the lake. The town isn't amazing, but is full of houses from a different era, and has a bit of a rural France feel about it. This wooden church (above) was something special. Lots of friendly and helpful people about the place.

 On Wednesday I headed out to a place called Jeti Ogutz, where some red-coloured rocks adorn the scenery. Somewhat out of place here, they stand out. They are more like something from central Australia. Generally the scenery here reminds me of Europe, something like Romania. Most people are Kyrg. in descent, but like Kazakhstan there is a real Russian influence especially in architecture. The above rock formation is called the 'broken heart'. Easy to see why.

Yesterday I took a jeep up to a place called Altyn Arashan, a valley with a few houses/buildings there. Stunning scenery too, real Kyrg. rural life on display. Hot springs as well prove popular with the locals. I stay in a ramshackle house with some real character. I group of Kyrg. tourists arrived last night and well, there was eating and drinking as one can imagine. I escaped lightly only having three vodkas and three glasses of surprisingly good Moldovon Sauvingnon Blanc. The only issue I had with the place was the outdoor pit toilets, but theres no water pumps and no electricty, so what could I expect?

I hiked around 15km back towards Karakol nearly to the sealed road where I got a taxi back to my guesthouse. Tomorrow I head to Bishkek again, Sunday to Tashkent in Uzbekistan. It has been brilliant in Kyrgystan and I realise why it was orginally the number one place I wanted to visit in Central Asia. All I can say now is, I hope to return someday!

Bishkek

Another day, another Central Asian Republic you may or may not have heard of. Actually, Kyrgystan is the main country I orginally wanted to visit in Cetral Asia. It had some polictical and ethnic strife last year but things are pretty quiet today and I have enjoyed two days of superb weather, which is great.

Monument, Victory Square, Bishkek.

So I left Almaty three days ago, found a mini-bus to Bishek at the bus station and within half n hour was on my way to the next country on my itinerary. Kyrgystan is a smaller country with a lot of mountains and  really nice capital city - Bishkek.

The journey here was through the steppe (plains) that I saw all over Kazakhstan. Yes, Kazakhstan has some amazing places. Also, a lot of nothing! Not that that's  bad thing.

Border crossings are always fun.

This statement is true if you change 'always' to 'almost never'. I would say never outright, but I am hopeful one day one country will throw a party in honour of my arrival. So far though...

So I was shunted through the Kazakhstan exit and then into and through the Kyrgystan entrance where I went to a special office to get my stamp and I got some evil looks like I was cutting the queue but well, I did wait in line as long as anyone else.

Theatre for Opera, Bishkek

 Anyways I found myself in a guesthouse with other travellers. This might be expected but I can honestly say in 18 days in Kazakhstan I only saw three other travellers like myself! Here there are at least 12 others at my guesthouse alone. Kyrgystan is a bit cheaper than Kazakhstan too which is nice, Astana in particular has no backpacker scene and thus is expensive.
So Bishkek.... nicest city so far in Central Asia for sure. Lots of beautiful parks. Yesterday walking around I saw wedding parties and even had a hit of table tennis in the park. The buildings are Soviet, and the mueseum has a whole floor devoted to Lenin, nevertheless it's very pleasant here.

Weddings, parties, parks in Bishkek

I have had a culture fix yesterday too. A Russian Children's play in the morning and then in evening I went to see an original Kyrgystan Opera! The army even came to see it! The stories created much conjecture as we tried to work out what was happening!
So tomorrow I am on to Karakol and the mountains tomorrow for around 3 days of easy hiking. Stay tuned!

Inside the Central museum, Lenin is well represented in bronze Soviet statues.

So long Kazakhstan...

My final proper day in this enigma that is Kazakhstan. From the Soviet stylings of Alma-Ata (Almaty) I took a short bus ride into the mountains to a place called Medeu. It was a pleasant morning out and about, I certainly enjoyed the scenery. There is even an ice rink, not in use at the moment, not with ice at least. Some sort of makeshift basketball court instead.

The mountains from Medeu

So tomorrow is the big push to Kyrgystan. One week there, then that is followed by a week and a half in Uzbeksitan and that will conclude Asia. For the time being at least!

Almaty from the 12th floor.

As the sun sets on Kazakhstan, I must admit I enjoyed my time here. Great weather, interesting place that few people know a lot about. The culture is certainly unique and interesting, the Russification of the land, cities and people provides a place totall;y different to China.Okay, so the next two countries are also former USSR, but I think they will have their own qualities too. No cities like Astana, but nature, history, desert... oh and I expect some really hot weather in Uzbekistan!

The Ice Rink, Medeu

The Soul of Kazakhstan

To continue on with my thoughts on Kazakhstan and Astana, I am now writing from Almaty. These cities are so different. Astana is a big flashy showpiece of modern architecture with giant ice creams cones and huge gold tea pots, Almaty is a Soviet style city with buildings that lack imagination. Then again, it has wonderful character and some brillant parks. Catching shade in the middle of the day is an impossibility in Astana.

Two large kettles adorn the Millenium Avenue, Astana.

On my last day in Astana I visited the simply amazing Palace of Peace and accord. Designed by a Brit, Norman Foster, responsible for many of the Astana creations. The Palace of Peace and Accord may have a name that doesn't demonstrate a perfect knowledge of the English language (ie. it sounds to me like someone just liked the sound of a Peace Accord) but it shines on the inside.

A pyramid on the outside, the interior is simply stunning. Designed in such a way that if you flew over the pyramid you would see the Kazakh flag, there is a concert hall inside, displays, a large atrium and lifts that take you almost to the top where you can climb steps to the very top. The lifts are in themselves a marvel rising on a diagonal rather than vertically. 

President Nazabaev seems to regard himself as a beacon to the world as far as peace and religions are concerned. This building opened in 2006 and held a conference of world religions. There is a conference table at the very top of the pyramid. It sits around an open circle that looks directly down into the bowels of the pyramid. What more can I say?

The top of the Pyramid from inside. The yellow is from the sun on the Kazakh flag.

The Palace of Peace and Accord, exterior.

 Then I took the 'Talgo' to Almaty, the fastest train in Kazakhstan. Still over 12 hours for around 1000 km journey, but better than 20!
 The glitz of Central Asia'a anwer to Dubai seems a distant memory. Astana, the capital of the steppe, is missing only two things - vegetation and people. Really, every time I went to a museum or attraction I was left wondering if the thing was open, such was the string of tourists entering and leaving the buildings (ie there were none).
Almaty on the other hand is for living. The parks are great, even artists set up their easels to paint, families wander, children play... I visited the main mosque here today, it is very much like a church inside, and I wonder if it is a converted church. The streets are busy, the traffic crazy, people bustle here and there. Astana is the capital, it is Nazabaev's vision. There are many things to see, many photographs to take. However, Kazakhstan's soul lies a Talgo ride south. Almaty.

Almaty, artist at work in one of many parks.