Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Meanwhile, in Vang Vieng

An interesting article today in the Age about Vang Vieng, a place I visited in 2011 whilst it still was a party Mecca. Apparently 20 people died tubing in 2011, only 7 last year. ONLY? sorry. Things have changed there it seems....

http://www.theage.com.au/travel/holiday-type/budget/partys-over-for-backpacker-mecca-20130115-2cr95.html

sorry folks blogger doesn't like links. You'll need to cut and paste it. At the time I felt sorry for the locals because of all the drunk tourists! (not to mention the stoned tourists) Now I feel sorry for them because of the lack of drunk tourists.
To be fair though, something had to be done with people dying so regularly. Having visited the place it is easy to see how that could happen. The thing is - you can bet your bottom dollar that a similar place with more relaxed rules than Vang Vieng has now will soon open up. If it hasn't already.

Monday, January 14, 2013

Final days of Sri Lanka

Street near where we stayed in Colombo
Good evening, morning, afternoon wherever you may be this day. I am compelled to recount the final 3 days I spent in Sri Lanka. I returned a week ago now and since then have been treated to a couple of nights at around -13 degrees and today it has been snowing solidly all day. I journeyed to Morioka to successfully replace my alien registration card, a victim of the wallet disaster, and tomorrow I am back at school. But there were 2.5 days in Sri Lanka after the wallet was stolen and I should write a little about them.

For not the first time in my travels, I was taken in by a family very sympathetic to my needs. This time, my wife was with me. In Burkina Faso, post-malaria I was very lucky to be taken in by an American family. As far back as India 1999 and Iran 2004 I have been taken in by total strangers, although in those cases I was not in peril or desperate need.
In this instance, all the cash was basically gone and credit cards maxxed out. We could have survived though, however this family was so kind and wanted us to stay with them it seemed like the perfect option, and a great chance to get to know some Sri Lankans. Don't go somewhere if you have no interest in learning about the people who live there too, I say. Except for (insert most hated country here). 
Negombo Beach at night
We were taken in by a very vibrant family who were very excited to have us in their home. We didn't get up to a lot in that time, we relaxed and talked to the family and got to know them. There was a bit of singing and dancing as you do, I was trying to contact Japan and check I would be okay to re-enter the country.
 We did go with the extended family to the Negombo beach one night. We all piled into a mini-van and off we went. It turned out to be quite a long drive. At the beach we threw the ball around a bit and had fun. Little stalls (pictured) sold food and snacks, mostly fried sweet potato which was okay. Maybe a little sandy lol...
The journey home someone owned a tuk-tuk, or a three-wheeler (pictured with yours truly below) and my wife and I traveled home in that. Well, it was quite a journey. Right next to the airport, about 50 metres below the bellies of landing aircraft, we were pulled over and the driver was in trouble as he didn't have the right papers with him, and he had been drinking! It was all sorted out but it took an hour and I believe it was solved by the promise of a bottle of brandy. We had no idea what was going on. Back into the tuk-tuk and we were off again! We were joined by the father of the house on motorbike who had come back to see what was taking us so long. He sped ahead and suddenly this dog fight was on the road and impossible to avoid, and he hit a dog! He was very lucky not to come off the bike. Then the tuk-tuk was having problems - turned out to be out of petrol! So it was well after ten when we finally arrived back at the house. But you have to take these things in your stride, especially when people have been so kind!
I never did take the Tuk Tuk out on the road :(
We had a barbeque that night, lots of meat! The only food I had in Sri Lanka that wasn't spicy and didn't make me sweat! The final day arrived, and we were sad to say goodbye to Sri Lanka despite all that had gone on with the wallet. It truly is a wonderful, beautiful country. A bit easier to survive than India in some respects, feels like a little India, SE Asia and even Ghana rolled into one! I really do recommend it as a place to visit, just careful at the Colombo Fort train station.
We took Malaysian Airlines back to Japan, via Kuala Lumpur. It was great to have some extra legroom for a change as we'd gone budget airlines all the way until then. I slept an awful lot during the flights and even at KL airport. Arriving in Tokyo we took the train to Tokyo station from Narita, and then the overnight bus to Ichinoseki. Exhausted, I slept half the day but my poor wife had to work.
It was clear but cold, but nothing compared to the night where it dropped below minus 10 degrees celcius. that was a serious freeze, and such a shock after coming from Sri Lanka!
We are home now, but I am going to try and keep the blogs coming, so stay tuned!

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Colombo daze... or how I lost my wallet

Howdy folks. Back safely in freezing Japan. Seriously it was like -13 last night. YES MINUS! Crikey and all that you know!
So the story of the wallet awaits, but first on the way back from Sigiriya we stopped at Matale where we saw the very ornate Sri Muthumariamman Hindu Temple. It's not ancient like the ruins at Sigiriya, but the carvings are very impressive and detailed. Even being so tired after the day trip, we could still be impressed!
The next day we were so tired we cancelled our plans and decided to just walk around Kandy and the lake. However, most of the day it rained and rained and even rained some more!

Sri Muthumariamman Temple
So the next day it was time to move on. The plan - visit Galle on the coast. This required two trains, with a change in the capital, Colombo. We got up nice and early to get the 6.15am train, where we had a comfy seat in the observation car. Was it a beautiful journey? Possibly - I slept most of it so I can't be sure! But what I did see was very green and very wet. Well, it was the time of the year! 
Arriving at Colombo Fort station, I had a couple of things to take care of. Firstly, toilet! Done! Secondly - buy tickets to Galle. Done! Thirdly, get out enough cash for the rest of the trip - Done!
Well, that seemed very smooth. Down to platform five to wait for the 10.30am train to Galle!
Inside the observation car

The train was suitably late. Only about 10 minutes. The platform swelled with people. The train pulled up. Before all this I took a few photos by the way. Mad dash as always to get on the train, I wanted to secure a seat for my wife and myself. People on board took time getting off. Finally it was free-for all time. No matter who was first, push shove and go go go!
Put my bag down on one seat, another behind it was free - oh no, someone saving that one. Just one seat, my wife came in and sat down. I sighed - I might be standing for the four hours to Galle. Still, for some reason my pants seemed lighter. Oh EXPLETIVE! I don't have my wallet! 


Someone had nicked it as we pushed onto the train. 69 countries, and the first time I have been robbed. What happened? I usually put my wallet in the zip pocket. But this time I just plonked it back in the front pocket. To be fair - it was an easy target in that rush. 
People were very kind though. They stopped the train, and someone said later they saw someone running away from it very fast and scared. Who knows if they had my wallet. Police were on the scene, the train was stopped. One passenger was very angry - I didn't ask anyone to stop the train for me.
Soon we were shunted off to the police station to make a report, or as they called it 'a complaint'. Against whom? The thief? The station? The police for letting it happen? I found it a strange title, that's what the police used.One office to another I explained my story, wrote down the contents of my wallet, all the time feeling an utter idiot to be honest. I know what's what - I know that the moment everyone is pushing is prime time as far as pick pockets go.
such is life I guess.
HOWEVER
every cloud has a silver lining. 
To find out about this silver lining...... you'll have to wait for my next post!

Saturday, January 05, 2013

Steps and Sigiriya

Water gardens below the Lions' rock.

Howdy all. I've had a bit of bad luck here. I have visited 69 countries in my life, but for the first time I have been robbed, boarding a packed train at Colombo station yesterday. I had my wallet picked from my front pocket. Usually have it in the zipped pocket, but was for whatever reason a bit lax yesterday. More on that in my next post though, trying to keep it all in order on the blog for now! 
The lions' rock.
That means today's post takes a look at a few days back when I visited the ancient city of Sigiriya.
We took a small tour on Wednesday from Kandy to the ancient city of Sigiriya and surrounds from our lovely guesthouse in Kandy. Through a friend  organised a great driver, name of Sunil, who drove my wife and I around and explained things as we went. We were both pretty tired from all the travel and the Danish family at the guesthouse who weren't the quietest of neighbours, nevertheless the day was a great one.
Ancient Sigiriya was built by a Sri Lankan monarch on the site of a monastery the good part of 2000 years ago. I believe it was in use for many centuries, and was built by a rather paranoid King who decided the safest spot to rule from was on top of the Lion's Rock (above) and built water gardens and a moat around the foot of it, and chucked in a few crocodiles for good measure.

The lions' paws and the start of the final part of the ascent.
 Today, it's a tourist attraction and visitors can climb the rock via the stairs to see the ruins of the ancient palace, not unlike the ruins of Macchu Picchu, at least the photos I have seen. On the way up we walked past the mirror wall, adorned with paintings of well-bosomed ladies in the one of the scariest (for those who are scared of heights) parts of the climb.
Many tourists were there too. We ascended the 1200 steps with them. We passed the mirror wall, and various gardens. Some parts were steps built into the rock face, at one point there was a wall between the drop and the walkers. Some impressive work to get that made!
leading up to the mirror wall.
 Finally, the last part faced us. Two giant lions' paws and steps leading to the very top. This also was very hairy, but then the view on top was spectacular. We saw the remains of the palace and grounds and even the swimming pool! Unfortunately very hazy but still a wonderful view. 1200 steps climbed and vertigo conquered - we had done well! It's really up there with some of the world's amazing places, it should be more well known. It's not quite the pyramids or Angkor Wat, nevertheless for the seeker of the world's ancient sites, it's a must-see.
Swimming pool and view at the top!
 On the way home we stopped at a temple in Matale, visited a herb garden where we were given the ins and outs of herbal medicine and had a nice buffet lunch - I should say the food is not the greatest here, at least not the restaurants. If you're like me and can't deal with spicy food, you're a bit in trouble. Everything gets a bit of chilli from a chicken sandwich to a bolognaise!

There was also a stop in Dambulla, where there are famous Buddhist temples in caves. We entered behind this huge statue of the Buddha and then... proceeded up maybe 500-600 steps. Yes, I couldn't escape steps wherever I went!
Gold Buddha, Dambulla.
 Impressed that I hadn't had a heart attack, I was sweating like crazy at this point instead! (yes, sorry, a detail you probably didn't need!) Still, the caves were nice if not mind blowing. Monkeys abounded in this area, but of more concern were the tourists, or should I say lack of locals? This place was only frequented, the afternoon we were there, by western tourists and their cameras. Yes, that includes me. But at least I didn't use the flash.
Inside one of the rock temples.

Nevertheless an interesting place to visit. We returned home via a road which was showing signs of the mud slides only a week or two before we came. Imagine sleeping in your house as the rain pours down outside and suddenly you are swept down the hill. Many people died as a result of the rain, floods and mudslides in December. And here we were touring the place. It's a strange thing to be touring an area so soon after tragedy.

So that was the day. A twelve-hour tour left us pretty tired. Next time I will tell you all about how my wallet was lifted - truly exciting stuff. lol. Until then...

Thursday, January 03, 2013

Kandyan Hospitality

Well, here I sit on my bed enjoying a few moments of actual working wifi to bring you the ins and outs of coming to this amazing and beautiful country, Sri Lanka.
A large island off the east coast of India, Sri Lanka has some similarities to its neighbour, but has a strong identity in its own right. We arrived a few days ago now after taking Tiger Airways from Singapore. The visa process is great here - you get an electronic visa thing online before you come, it was 20 bucks, and your passport number comes up on the computer at immigration and you're in. Didn't even need our printouts.

Kandyan street

The guesthouse here really goes all out to provide services for you. It organised a pickup from the airport to take us all the way here to Kandy. Tours, dinners, laundry, run by one wonderful woman we have been so impressed.
Our first day we walked around the town. We visited the train station and booked a ticket for today to go to Nuwara Eliya - we never used it as we had a long 12 hour tour yesterday and we didn't have the energy. Fortunately it only cost around nine dollars for two people.

In the evening we went to a cultural show near this man-made lake that Kandy is centred on. The hall was filled with westerners who watched a 45-minute show mostly of Sri Lankan dancing with drums, which was interesting. Following that there was the national anthem, a bit unexpected and not sung ummm.... very well. But the show stopper was the fire walking at the end. Much of the audience moved to the stage so we could watch in the round as two men breathed and walked on fire. It was pretty awesome.
Then we came home to the guesthouse for a feast of curries and fruit. Some fantastic cooking!


The next day we visited the Temple of the Tooth. Whose tooth? Well apparently it is Buddha's tooth, a sacred relic. It is in a special container covered with gold, and for select times each day it is open to see. However, the container is not. The queues (it was New Year's Day) were long. That's an understatement.
The queues went on and on...

But they kept slowly moving as we entered the temple. Up some stairs, down some others, what then hell we went all the way to catch a half second glimpse of the container. It was very... shiny. Is it real? Who can truly say? Not I.


There were other rooms and temples in the complex, and a small museum that was very interesting. As for animals, this area is teaming with them, especially monkeys. But my favourite simply has to be the elephant. Such grand creatures. They seem so noble, and there was one in the grounds.

The afternoon featured braving the bus system to the tea museum. A very interesting place, I had tea manufactuaring explained to me in the country whose name is sysnonomous with tea. Housed in an old building with creaky, wooden floors, I recommend this place. Nice tea to buy as well - and prices as good as anywhere. We found the building up a big hill. I was worried the bus wouldn't make it up there for a while, but it did. Beautiful, green, hilly landscape everywhere. We've found a little piece of paradise here!


I don't normally plug accommodation, but if you need a good priced guesthouse in Kandy, then please consider the one we stayed at - Madugalle's Friendly Family Guesthouse. The owner is wonderful. The link -

Madugalle Friendly Family Guesthouse

Wednesday, January 02, 2013

Universal Christmases Inc, Singapore LTD,


Happy New Year readers! This post was to mark the end of 2012 but with no access to the net due to the wifi at my guesthouse being frustratingly down, it's been rolled over to the new year. So I am left with a bit of catching up after flying from Singapore to Sri Lanka and already having a few adventures.
Singapore was a brief sojourn, nothing more. I took in two movies - do not miss Les Miserables.... Anne Hathaway you blew me away! And the most fun day (oh gawd my English usage is starting to mimic my students. Apart from this bit in brackets) was at USS - Universal Studios Singapore. Many of my students went to USJ (Universal Studios Japan) and raved about it. I had a suitably good time at its sister site in Singapore. Well some rides were better than others.

This made 2012 the year of the theme park for me - I visited four, up on 2011's zero. They are fun, although it's not a priority in my life at this stage. It was the main thing in Singapore I hadn't visited. Peak season again like it was for Tokyo Disneyland, or so it seemed. The biggest lines were coming to and leaving Sentosa Island for the monorail.A wait to get tickets, but comparatively cheap at 74 Singapore dollars, around $AUD60.

I enjoyed 'The Mummy Returns' Ride most of all, far superior to the films, of which I have seen one only. The Transformers ride was excellent containing an indoor roller-coaster type thing and 3-D to great effect. The Jurassic Park water ride was longest queue for the smallest buzz. The Shrek 4-D show was pretty cool, and the Jurassic Park observation ride was good too. I finally got the courage to go on a roller coaster - the Battlestar Galactica ride which really didn't have anything to do with the series once you were on it. That wasn't so scary but I kept the fear bottled up inside and as a result didn't get the buzz I was hoping for out of it.

 Orchard Road's famed Christmas decorations were pretty special, a reputation well deserved. It was a couple of days after Christmas, but they stick around for a while into the New Year I imagine. I wasted some wonderful time looking for a coin laundry that wasn't there any more, as I said saw movies, I was there for three days with my wife... Seems like we didn't do a lot but really we did enough. Fourth time for me in this island city. So VERY busy these days. It is the shopping mecca.
As for the locals, as I wrote in March 2011, they just won't put down their phones and ipads. I saw a woman watching a movie on the MRT and it was their stop, so she kept their head down and walked out of the train still engrossed in her iphone. Is this the future of the world??

But now I am in Sri Lanka. Stay tuned for the trip from Singapore to Kandy, and everything I see in this amazing beautiful country!

Happy 2013!