Colognee - the Dom, the art, the past.

Wilkommen to Germany! It's been a little while since I blogged and I apologise. I am on sabaitcal this week in the Bavarian countryside you see, but I did visit Cologne last week and recognise that I have an obligation to blog! 

On a more serious note, it appears I left the UK just before all hell broke loose. As an outside it is hard to comprehend how this just broke out. I know the government isn't so popular and has been making a lot of spending cuts, but from my understand the employment situation, at the moment, wasn't too bad. So now it seems a state of lawlessness has arrived and well, I have a lot of friends in the UK. I can only hope they stay safe.

Cologne is an interesting place. It is without doubt a big city, and along with that comes all the things that big cities contain. I was especially taken aback by the homelessness I saw there. Europe is struggling at the moment, but Germany is supposedly doing the best. So it was a little surprising and confronting because it was very clear and visable in Cologne. 

Typical square in Colgne.

 On the other side of the coin, it's a city with a lot to see and do. Many churches, inlcuding the 'Dom', one of the tallest churches on the planet if I'm not mistaken. Then there are lots of little squares and places for a meal out in the sun (ok, not so much when I was there, out in the rain?). Many people walk the street with a beer in their hand, this seems almost the norm in Cologne, even at 930am. There is no law against it.
So plenty of tourists in Cologne, there is also a series of Galleries and Museums as well to keep anyone interested for days.

The face of Colgne, the exterior to the Dom.

 And here we have the grandest of all churches and attractions in Cologne, the 'Dom'. The present building dates back to around the 12th century and has a lot of medieval and gothis influences. And it is really really tall! Inside are some beautiful stained glass windows, altars, small chapels dotting the far end, an organ that perches precariously some eight to ten metres in the air above the pews. I did a self guided tour and that took me over an hour. There were throngs and throngs of tourists yes, but wow, what a building!

Amazing windows in the Dom.

 Other churches were interesting too, including and espcially that of St Gerome, a Catholic church. There also is a grand bridge over the Rhine River. This was totally destroyed during World War II. The bombings devasted Cologne, however they dilberately kept the Dom untouched.

Bridge over the Rhine.

I also visited a museum for ecclesiastical artifacts including windows and statues. Very interesting, as was a gallery/museum to KatheKollwitz. Her art is a collection of sculpture, charcoal and etchings, with a very sad, sombre nature to them. Much of the work was done between the two world wars, and is very bleak. The lack of colour does not help, but at the same time her expression of pain and loss is very very moving. I was very glad to see this exhibition, I felt a connection not experienced with much of the modern art I have viewed on this trip. The time between wars was esepcially bleak for Germany, and this is certainly shown in Kollwitz's moving works.

El de Haus - basement/prison area in the Museum to Documet National Socialism.

Finally I visited something even darker, the Museum to Document National Socialism, or to the time of the Nazi Party. It is housed in a former gestapo building and prison, and the cells are as they were in the late 1930s through to the end of the Second World War. The prisoners' writings are still on the walls and translations are on display, it's very well done, creepy, moving, and add your own superlative here.
Upstairs is almost exclusively in German and documents the rise of the Nazi party and life in Germany under them. So with out the translation a fair bit is lost, the provided pamphlet was only basic.  Confronting but worth a visit. Full credit to Germany, they don't ignore their past and pretend it didn't happen.

So now only a short time in Europe is left, on Sunday I travel to France. Just over a week there and then I will be returning to Japan, so stay tuned!

Lovely, Lush Luxembourg

Hello folks.
I am writing from Cologne, Germany... Yes I do get around. But here I am to tell you about my time in Luxembourg, where I have just spent the last three days.

Aqueducts used to bring water, now trains to Luxembourg.

 I arrived in Luxembourg on the first of August after my Eurostar journey from early morning London. I was lucky enough to be the only person boarding the train to get my bags fully searched, and nearly missed the thing because of it. Still, soon I was on the 300kmph Eurostar hurtling towards the continent. I remember we entered the chunnel but there was no exciting fanfare as I imagined or an announcement that we were entering it, it just started. Then I woke up five minutes before Brussels!
After that it was three hours to Luxembourg I think. The capital was built on top of a giant rock in 963 AD and since then thez have burrowed into the rock to create tunnels which I visited called casemates. A small section is open and there are a lot of tunnels.
There's a few nice churches as well to visit and a plethora of museums and galleries. I took a Luxembourg Card and for 10 Euros could enter as many as I had time for in one day. The History of the City of Luxembourg Museum is one, that like some of its counterparts is built in a modernised building, that also goes into the rock. It showcases the city, as well it might with that title. The view across Luxembourg, across the valley is breathtaking. The rail bridges are very long and have a Roman-aqueduct design to them so they really suit the city.

Castle at Vianden.

 On the second day I ventured out with some friends I made in Vietnam (and then again bumped into them by pure coincidence in China) to other towns in Luxembourg. At Vianden is a stunning castle on a hill which was chok-full of people revelling in a medieval festival. The countryside is also gorgeous and perfect for a picnic. Then in a place called Remich it was time for mini-golf!

View of casemates, Luxembourg city.

As for the copius hours I spent looing at modern art... well I'm not sure I gained anything but an increased dislike for it! soooo pretentious! Someone puts a postcard over an old photo of Humphrey Bougart and that is apaprently art? Pish and Tosh I say. And galleries pay for that sort of thing! Then there was a 15 minute video entitled '15 minutes in Busan' as one guy is filmed, poorly, being put into various statue positions by two othes.

They are taking the piss right??

BUT Luxembourg is a little gem. That's all I can say. If medieval villages and cities is your thing, and you are running out of European countries you haven't yet been too, it might be for you. I think it's often over looked, and don't think it should be.

London - The Royals, Westminster and one last but of Geeking Out!

Well folks, I have around 12 hours left in Great Britain. It's funny, I have had 24 days here (not including the two before I went to Cameroon) yet I write from you so tired and this endless feeling of moving dragging me down. What to make of this place? It feels somehow different to the previous three visits. Maybe it's because I am tried and my shoulder hurts, I don't know. I arrived yesterday afternoon, and after catching up with an old friend I did some sight-seeing today.

Doctor Who Experience.

 I am styaing at a pretty grotty hostel all said, and sleep last night and I had about 3 hours sleep in total. However I am more concerned about tonight as I have to rise at 4.45am, around an hour after I finally fell asleep last night. Hopefully the others in my dorm will be quieter and less... weird tonight.
It was only one person really.

Ok the Doctor Who Experience. Told to go and see it by a few people I did. And as a fan of the original series more than the new one I felt let down. There is a sort of interactive mini-theme park section where Matt Smith has recorded video and you go from TARDIS console room to Dalek Motehrship and other places. I guess that's what the 18-20 pound entrance is for. Yes that's right. This had something to do with my dissatisfaction.
However for kids I imagine it's a complete hoot, and there is a couple of things from the first 26 years of the programme, but it's mostly based on the 2010 series with Matt Smith. What can I say? I'm a hard man to please! Madame Tussaud's is almost 30 pounds! The UK really fleeces people for any sort of tourist attraction.

Buckingham Palace.

 I walked around in London for a bit and saw Westminster Abbey, very impressive and gothic indeed, but not open on a Sunday. Then a walk around St James Park - 24 degrees today so everyone out in the best weather I have had all the time I have been here. Nearby was Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, again brilliant buildings steeped in English History. Then to Buckingham Palace, lots of tourists everywhere. Oh the Throngs! It seems the biggest groups here are Spanish and Italian. Oxford street as busy as I remember it - more so. Whew time to get my tired carcus back here to my grotty hostel.

Westminster Abbey.

Tomorrow, 620am, the Eurostar. I hit the continent! I am making my way to Brussels and then to Luxembourg tomorrow... back on trains, which I am very happy ab out. So, until my next blog...

Gorgeous York

Welcome to York readers. A lovely little town that should be on everyone's 'not to be missed' list when visiting the UK. So surprising that it is the fourth time I have been to the UK and the first time I have been to York.

York dates back to 71AD when it was a Roman fortress, the remains of which are still visible in modern day York. Then it was a Norman city, and then a Medieval city from around the 13th Century, which is what is principally on display for the throngs today.

Stain glass windows in York Minster.

 The York Minster (St Peter's Cathedral) is the biggest site in York. I took a tour and it went for two and a half hours. the guides in York are truly knowledgeable and full of interesting stories like the Bishop whose statue in the Minster has two right feet, so he wouldn't be thought of as Catholic - who use their left foot to genuflect. There are 128 stain glass windows, the largest of which has been years getting restored and lead removed, and will be another seven years until completion. It is replaced with a giant photo.
It's the largest minster in the UK I believe, and was built on the site of the original, smaller, Norman Cathedral, which was built on the site of a Roman fort.
I have seen many stabs at the date of its building, but lets say between 12th and 14th centuries. It's not to be missed!

Typical Tudor redesign of a Medival building. Note the 'overhang'

 The streets themselves can be walked for hours, amazing medieval buildings which have had a Tudor redressing over the years (like the one above). Medieval can date back to the 12-13th centuries, whereas the Tudor period relates to the reign of King Henry the 8th, in the 17th century. These buildings typically have quite a bit of overhang on the first floor, because they were taxed according to floor space and this overhang space apparently didn't count! Aslo, the medieval city walls surround much of York and can be walked along. They don't quite connect - there are gaps, but in total it's around 4.5km walk to circle the town. It really is a placed steeped in history.

The Minster from a distance, taken from the city walls.

 And for those of us who are train buffs, the awesome National Rail Museum (well priced at free!) is a must too. So many old, powerful steam locomotives. One that had be opened to show the workings was just brilliant. I finally understand how steam is used to move giant pistons. Highlights included a Shinkansen (Japanese Bullet Train), Royal Carriages, a history of British Rail and the Mallard (2500), built to go fast from London to Edingburgh. This blue beast could reach speeds of over 110 MILES per hour, so around 170kph. I know, why did they bother switching to diesel? In fact I asked, apparently three people could drive a diesel train, they needed ten for a steam train.

Not the Mallard, but a similar train that could touch 11mph.

 So that's beautiful York. It is even sunny today, that makes two days out of  twenty. Mid-summer. I am told I have been lucky.....

                 

On Holidays.... Scrap Metal, Cars and..... Beer???

When one is travelling one needs a bit of a break sometimes. To settle down for a week with friends and not be a tourist for a short while. If that is possible. That's what I have been up to of late. Now, I am in York, back being a tourist in this awesome little town I can't believe it's taken me so long to visit. 

So I have been in a place called Northampton where I helped a good mate remove some scrap metal from his house. I tried and failed at Salsa dancing. I had a few beers and was told quite adamently that we don't drink beer in Australia, it's only drunk here in England. Okay, I call what the Brits drink 'Ale' to differentiate it from the cooler, easier to drink lagers and bitters we principally drink in Australia. Essentially though... I disagree and would kill for a Pure Blonde or Cascade Premium.... Fosters is the main Australian beer available here. Enough said.

What's NOT to love about possibly the best tourist site in England? A scrapyard in Northampton.

Well, then I journied to ChesHam to catch up with another old friend, one I hadn't seen since January 2001. Chesam is a wonderfully English village/town with a great little old town not so far from London. Another couple of lazy days going on picnics, confounding people with requests for Aussie-style burgers and the discovery of a computer game I somehow had missed called 'Angry Birds'. Then there was the car - a Westfield. This was worth taking a hair-raising ride in! An inch from the ground, nothing to keep the English Wniter... What? Sorry person next to me just informed me that it is Summer here. That doesn't seem right. Still, no roof to keep the weather out, an engine that sets off car alarms.... Woooohoooooooo!

The Westfield. Vroom!

Chesham.

Now I am in York, visited an amazing 'Minster' (Cathedral) here today. But - that's for the next entry!

Colleges: from All Soul's to Hogwarts!

Bridge of Sighs.

A few more days in Oxford and I have seen much of this amazing town. The buildings are magnificent, the colleges that form Oxford University are amazing, and the weather is.... terribly English. It is the middle of Summer, or so I am led to believe, however the weather is probably better in Melbourne right now, where it is the middle of Winter. Rain, wind and tempertures around the mid-teens!

Luckily Oxford has enough sites to keep one's mind, slightly at least, off the weather. There are some impressive structures to walk past, such as the Radcliffe Camera, a large circular building that doesn't appear to take photos, and the Bridge of Sighs (pictured above), which reminds me of the bridge in Mostar, Bosnia.

Mr T. Rex, the Pitt Rivers Museum.

Then there are the museums and libraries, of which there are many. The T-Rex above can be found at the wonderfully Victorian Pitt Rivers Museum of Natural History along with many other skeletons. There's information on the Dodo, other displays on Evolution and then in a second room, dimly lit, are hundreds of glass cases filled with objects from all over the world from Papua New Guinea to the Americas. There was also the biggest Totem Pole I have ever seen! It was wonderfully English and dim and dusty, with far to many objects to be displayed properly, they just crammed as many things into the cases as they could, and then as many cases into the room as they could.

Then there was the Ashmolean Museum, another wonderful museum following in the British tradition of invasion, pilferring followed by display. Both museums were in amazing buildings too.

All Soul's College.

 But the cream of Oxford is its university, and the colleges. Why, today alone I visited four colleges, and a couple yesterday. Above is All Soul's College, typically Anglican in name (Church of England) with a remarkable Chapel, and as with all the colleges here, immaculate lawns and fantastic quadrangles. I have also visited Merton, Whadham & Exeter College (this last one had a fantastic chapel as well).

Outside Christ Church College on Sunday, the queue is unbelievable!

 But the cream of the cream is Christ Church College. Yes, it does get the most visitors because of one singular reason - it is known as the Harry Potter College. This is the building used as Hogwarts, or part of Hogwarts. But it is also a magnificent college, the largest I saw with more wonderful lawns and quadrangles. Unfortunately the chapel was closed for the Georgian Boys Choir, but just walking around the buildings was breathaking enough.

The 'Harry Potter Hall', Christ Church College.

And then there was the most popular room in the house - what the lady at the entrance called 'The Harry Potter Room'. Well, this grand hall had people in and out all the time, and I am pretty sure it was the dining hall in the Harry Potter films. I visted Christ Church College today, although I went yesterday but saw queues like you wouldn't believe. I estimated there was between a one and two hour wait, so I passed yesterday, but today was Monday and I could basically walk straight in.
Of further note is a building called the Bodleian Library, a grand building yes, but inside was one of the more interesting displays on the making of the King James Bible, one of the first fully-translated English-language bibles (after two others I think) first published in 1611. It was translated and put together by many literary men here in Oxford over many years leading to its publication. The display showed different translations, the history, even a note about the 'Wicked' version of the bible printed many a century ago now. Why was it wicked? Instead of the Seventh Commandment reading: 'Thou shalt not commit adultery', the printers omitted the 'not'. Needless to say, scandel ensued!

Interior courtyard view of the Bodleian Library.

And so, that is that for Oxford. This place goes back nearly 1000 years as a learning centre, and some of the colleges are almost that old. It's been a brilliant place to stop for five nights. Next on the agenda is a bit of rest for me, but I will be back in just over a week blogging about the northern English town of York!

This is Oxford!

Seems my liking for interesting titles has all but disappeared! Here I am in Oxford, greeted by (relatively) good weather, I had a bit of an explore today, also visited the Church of St Mary the Virgin and climbed the tower.

Ye Grande Olde Building, Typical of ye Oxford!

The journey was slow on National Express, the buses that cover the UK. Long wait in Birmingham reminded me of my trip in 2000-01 where I had many long waits in Birmingham for connections. But I arrived last night in Oxford to find it bustling with many people indeed. Yes, many students are staying on and many tourists are here visiting.

Organ in Chruch of St Mary the Virgin, Oxford.

 And why not? Oxford is a beautiful town full of more universities than you could poke a stick at! Los of wonderful buildings too everywhere you go. It's a lovely place to be and no mistake. I am staying at unversity residences which has turned out to be a good move, I have a nice room withy plenty of spce, with five nights here I am able to unpack and spread out.

St Mary the Virgin.

 So now I can kick back and relax and check out a few places I will never study! Don't lose your bookmark!

View from Chruch Tower of Oxford.

Cardiff

Cardiff Castle.

Folks you find me, unsurprisingly thanks to the title, in the capital of Wales, Cardiff. I have had three days here and it's a nice enough place, although I am taken aback somewhat by the number of alcoholics on the street who have frequent loud 'conversations', and parents who yell at their kids too. It's been strange, not something I have experienced on this journey anywhere else.

Attraction-wise, Cardiff isn't packed with stuff to see. Most buildings have 'Millennium' in front of them, like the Millennium Centre', a big fancy building with giant Welsh words cut out of a bronze facade. Inside are a couple of shops, a theatre or two, a BBC centre being built which will house a Doctor Who Exhibit (now you're excited). The building itself features heavily in Torchwood and once or twice in Doctor Who. The lady at the shop even had a list of many Doctor Who filming locations around Cardiff. No... I didn't then spend the rest of my time hunting them down. I promise. But Doctor Who is a big part of Cardiff today. Really!

The Millennium Centre.

 The National Museum is full of the history, particularly ancient and palentological (yes I made that word up) of Wales. It's free, which I enjoyed. Interesting art too. Then the Cardiff Castle is the showpiece of the city. It is 11 pounds which is quite exorbitant in my view. But it has some interesting history going back 2000 and is a must see. In one section there is a house built into the walls, inside it is done up as restored Victoriana - quite brilliant! Lovely clock tower as well.

Cardiff Bay.

 That done, I went for an afternoon trip to a small village called St Fagan's, about 20 minutes by bus from Cardiff. There is a wonderful open air museum there with houses and a castle also decked out inside. It's really worth a look in the Wales countryside. Beautiful grounds as well! Wales is an interesting place. The accent is amazing - and hard to replicate - and everything is signed in both Welsh (usually first) and English. They are a proud people!

St Fagan's Castle.

Tomorrow - I head to Oxford!

Getting my Geek on!

Sylvester McCoy (The 7th Doctor) & Myself, London Film & ComicCon.

Well folks, a brief sort of soourn from the travelling. After a night I'd rather not remember flying from Yoaunde to London, losing my bag and struggling for a measly hour's sleep on the plane, I touched down in sunny England with two days of serious nerdom ahead!

London Film & Comic Con 2011.

The above two pictures are from London Film and ComicCon, apparently a title sneakily stolen from the original ComicCon oft held in the States. Well, for me, a Doctor Who fan, it was great. I got to meet actors from the series I have never met before. If the naes Sylvester McCoy, Sarah Sutton, Sophie Aldred, Louise Jameson, Richard Franklin and John Leeson mean anything to you, you might have been excited too.

Then again, there were many people frpm different series and movies there. The Highlander guy for one, and Christopher Lloyd of Back to the Future, Taxi and Star Trek fame. Did I say Star Trek, then how about Brent Spliner who played Data? There was Kenny Baker - R2DC from Star Wars and many more, but THE most sought signature was that of Karen Gillan, the present Doctor Who companion and pin-up girl. I only saw her from afar.

Sarah Sutton (Nyssa) and Colin Baker (The 6th Doctor) at the Doctor Who Day, Beer.

But wait, there's more. On Sunday I made my way to Beer from my base in Exeter to a 'Doctor Who Day' at a little place called Pecorama. Beer is a really pretty town on the English South Coast. Sarah Sutton also appeared there, and I got to meet the Sixth Doctor, Colin Baker. And play mini-golf, and see a Doctor Who exhibition.

On my side with a Dalek! How do you turn the thing around?

Masks etc at the Exhibition, Pecorama, Beer.

But now I am in Cardiff, the capital of Wales. The sojourn is over, and I am a back-packing tourist once more! Cardiff has many tourist attractions.. the Torchwood Hub, a Doctor Who Exhibition.... yes my geeky sidetrip is done with...

Beer, Devon, England.

Yaounde et Au Revouir Cameroun, El pais Beau!!

Here I stand (well sit) in Yaounde with a few hours until I leave Africa and Cameroon. Again, expectations have been defied. I highly recommend Cameroon for a taste of West Africa. The only negative I can think of is the cos of accommodation.

I came here in the rainy season, but didn`t lose a day to rain, so I have been lucky. The weather has, in general been good and cool. My only regret is not being well enough to climb Mount Cameroon. 

I left Bamenda yesterday. The day before I travelled northwards along the ring road in a packed minivan to see the Metchum falls, on the Metchum River.

The Pastor preches to the bus before we leave Bamenda for Yaounde.

Metchum falls proved to be big and impressive in an amazing part of the country. The ring road is in the north-west and has been a highlight of Comeroon. The transport also was. The mini-vans or bush taxis have all been packed to the hilt, leaving us wondering often whether we would make it. If that isn’t amazing enough, we hitched from the falls to a northern town called Wum to get transport back to Bamenda.

Streets of Yaounde.

After three days trips in as many days , yesterday I took a bus to the nation’s capital, Yaounde. It’s not got a lot of sights , and the National Museum is closed for renovations at the moment. So many closed museums on this trip.

Still, leafy and wide streets, it’s not too bad here.

The bus journey was eventful. I had a six yearold fall asleep on me for the whole jounrey nearly – over six hours. We had a wmon come on the bus trying to sell some sort of tonic, then a pastor who said he would cure our illnesses. I still have a cough !! The bus was very packed an chaotic and took two and a half hours to leave, but before nine pm I was here in Yaounde.

Metchum Falls.

And soon I am gone, like the wind, with six weeks in Europe and then to Japan again, followed by my first teachng English gig in Georgia. Yes... the future awaits. You know I have been to some brilliant places, yet I remain excited.....

The Fon of Bali, artwork and amazing views.

So since Limbe I moved on to Bamenda, a bustling busy town in the English speaking north of the country. It's been the base for a couple of day excurisions, and should be for one more tomorrow.

Yesterday I took a squishy bush taxi, two plus driver in the front, four in the back, to the little village of Bali.

This is where the Fon of Bali recieves honoured guests.

 Bali is an amazing little village 20km from Bamenda which has a great community spirit. Singing can be heard across the hills, and the place is looked after by His Majesty Dr Ganyonga III, the Fon of Bali. For the unitiated in Cameroonian governmental systems, much of this area in the north is divided into Fondoms, or small Kingdoms. The Lonely Planet informed my travelling partner and I that we could get a palace tour! So we found the palace and waited for the receptionist. A man passed us and said as it was Sunday everyone was at prayers. He suggested we come back tomorrow. As I gathered myself to leave, the receptionist appeared and we got our tour. Little did we know, the gentlman who we first spoke to was the Fon! So now I have officially met a King! He solves disputes, entertains and recieves many guests from government representatives to even foreign diginitaries. They all work together for the people of Cameroon.

Masks at the Prescraft Centre.

 Today we headed to a place called Bamessing where we visited an arts and crafts centre where traditional African crafts are made such as masks and bowls. The people work here and we saw them working with the clay. It's another community project and was a great place to visit and buy things too, good prices. It is called 'The Prescraft Centre'.

View from Sabga Hill.

On the way back we climbed to the top of this amazing hill and saw some of the surrounding hilly area. Breath-taking views from Sabga Hill near the village of Sabga. This area is known as the 'Ring Road'. It's a windy road that circles the area. Tomorrow we plan to go a different direction!

Photos from Limbe & Primates Prospering!

And now some photos from Limbe. Since I last posted properly I  visited the amazing Limbe Sanctuary for Primates - sorry can't remember the exact title, but it was just brilliant. I got to see Gorillas, Drills, Mandrills and Baboons (as well as one big python!) all rescued, confisctaed or donated to this amazing place that gives them large cages (I mean large, plenty of space and really an enclosure) for them to live safely in without fear of the poachers and hunters here, of which there are many. Often I worry about zoos and the like in the third world, no issue here though!

Oil rig off the coast from Limbe.

Amazing Tree in the Limbe Botanical Gardens.

Drills at the Wildlife Centre.

Pictures from Kribi

Hi Folks.

Finally able to upload some photos, so firstly here are some I took around Kribi, around a week ago now. Enjoy!

Sunset - Hotel View in Kribi

The amazing Lobe River.

Local Tribe I visited near the Lobe River.

Pirogues in front of the Lobe Waterfalls.