Sunday Spotlight: Bukhara

Bukhara streets

Hello! And welcome to the Sunday Spotlight. Each Sunday I aim to provide a post about somewhere in the world I’ve visited that is pretty darned awesome, in my opinion at least. I hope this Easter everyone is safe and enjoying a relaxing weekend with their families and friends. As for me, well, I am off to Mount Fuji today, finally getting up close and personal with this iconic landmark of Japan.

Main Square in Bukhara with lake.

But it’s too Uzbekistan I’m taking the blog to, and the Silk Road city of Bukhara, an ancient place with a middle eastern feel. It’s really the perfect place to appreciate Islamic Architecture and feel a part of history that many tourists worldwide have never considered and have never heard of. And Uzbekistan has loads of this sort of stuff, but the old quarter in Bukhara is quite self contained, great to roam the streets and alleyways, and is somewhat away from the bustle of the larger, more modern part of the city.

Getting there? Well the train from Tashkent, when I visited a couple of years back now, took around 7 hours, but they have since bought Talgo trains so the journey should be somewhat faster.

Sleep where? I slept at a great little guesthouse called Sarafon Bed and Breakfast. Uzbekistan has a great collection of Bed and Breakfasts, and this is no exception. Rooms are $25-30, comfortable, have bathroom and air conditioner, and the owners are friendly and eager to help. Good location in the old town.

Eating – Plenty of restaurants around, try the one in the main square Lyabi Hauz, I had a good meal with a couple of drinks for around $8.

Some of the things to see in the town include (from my ebook ‘Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan’ –

Kalon Mosque

Kalon Mosque and Minaret from outside.

Wandering the streets is, on its own, a real highlight of visiting Bukhara. Dusty streets, high walls, many of them were pretty much deserted as I wandered around and then suddenly – Bang! A tour group. But I also passed Medressas and mosques in the amazing streets of Bukhara. The Kalon Mosque has a striking minaret which you see above the houses and walls in the area north east of Lyabi-Hauz. It’s kind of nestled between houses and such and it springs up on your out of nowhere.

Inside, the Kalon Mosque continues to impress with its great beauty. It features wondrous high arches and a blue dome, and isn’t quite as popular with the tourist as some of the other attractions in Bukhara. It’s big and mosaic work is exquisite. There are lots of corridors with arches in what are sort of cloisters, it’s also really peaceful. A real highlight of Bukhara.

The Ark

‘The Ark’ – with a name like that, I expected a big boat! Except of course that I’d researched already and knew it wasn’t. It’s actually a big citadel, reputedly the oldest part of Bukhara that was bombed by the Soviets in 1920. So what you see today is mostly rebuilt. But nevertheless, it’s very impressive.

From Lyabi-Hauz you walk past the Kalon Mosque and Minaret, through to the Registan area. The Registan is the square outside the Ark. You’ll see the Ark rising above the buildings as you close in. Then past a whole stretch of tourist shops selling artefacts and carpets and if you’re lucky postcards (postcards in Central Asia are rarer than hen’s teeth. Well, almost!).

Then there she is, rising out of the sand with huge turrets, a huge entrance, it’s almost a sand castle that got bigger than the kids had intended and will now stand forever. What’s inside? Well it starts with an impressive passageway past the opening gate opening up at the top with various buildings and so forth to explore.

Central inside the citadel is the Juma (means ‘Friday’) Mosque. It’s not massive, but it is interesting. It dates back to the 17^th century and inside are many different Korans. There are a couple of courtyards you’ll find once you start exploring. Everything may have basically been rebuilt, but it’s still quite striking and impressive. Be aware if you are there in summer as I was it will be very hot, and as in all of Bukhara there is very little shade.

If you explore the buildings and courtyards you will come across a couple of different museums. I always find the history of the last century or so more interesting than that of ancient times with broken pottery and the like, both are on show here. Perhaps what is best though is the view across Bukhara. Definitely worth the admission price (double if you have a camera) to get up there and look out across this amazing city that was once part of the Silk Road.

Bolo-Hauz Mosque

Pretty much opposite the Ark, you’ll find the Bolo-Hauz Mosque. It’s a really nice place inside, and worth a peak. If you’re lucky you won’t have too much company, although the tour groups kept coming in and out of there whilst I was there sadly. Its façade features thin wooden columns and a sort of lattice-worked wooden roof, then you enter and look up to a beautiful white dome. There are many arches, and the floor is covered with interesting carpets. It dates back to the early 18^th century and was specially built for the Emir of the time.

Outside there is something of a pond and a water tower between the mosque and the Ark. Apparently you can climb the water tower for great views. I didn’t, I hate heights and no-one else was climbing whilst I was there so decided it probably wouldn’t be a good idea.

If you’d like to learn more about Uzbekistan and my experiences there, check out my ebook available on Amazon Kindle – Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.

Astounding Uzbekistan and a Video Date with Andy

As followers of this blog will know, I am darned keen on travel. I love to write as well, but also, I love to make short films and the like.
Along with my (blush) Doctor Who fanfiction stuff, I also have a channel called 'The Greater World' on youtube which has 13 travel videos on it at the moment. The latest travel video I created put together nearly 2 hours of footage I took in 2011 when I was in Uzbekistan.
I had a serious overland trip from Bishkek to Tashkent in one day, which took me through Kazakhstan and I wanted to capture that experience in my video. From different marshrutka to different marshrutka travel in Central Asia can be fun, and it is always an adventure. Join me as I visit the ancient Silk Road cities of Bukhara and Samarkand and see some of the world's most amazing Islamic architecture. This is a really interesting video... I hope!

For more information on Uzbekistan my Short journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan is full of stories and facts! Not to mention, travel tips and photos!

Yesterday I completed a short introductory video about my self published books. I've been doing some research on how to get more sales, and one advice people gave on forums and articles and the like was to have a short video speaking about your writings. So I thought I would give it a go. I recorded a couple of days ago, but was unhappy so I did it all again. I'm not really sure how useful it will be. I've put it on my youtube channel and added it to my author pages on Lulu and Amazon. Please take a gander!




Today I am heading into Yokohama to sample the Cup Noodle Museum, and might be seeing some cherry blossoms in the evening if the weather holds out for me, so stay tuned for that blog... tomorrow!

Central Asian tips and photos

So I know I peddle this and that, and recently I have been peddling Central Asia, in particular Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, today I am not stopping! (LOL)
I wanted to talk about the place as a region. If you take the Lonely Planet Guide to Central Asia, it considers the region to be six countries. The three above plus Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan. Personally I consider the region to be just the five ex-Soviet states, so not including Afghanistan which I think of as a unique situation somewhere at the crossroads of South Asia, Central Asia and the Middle East. What I can say about these five countries is that they don't receive a lot of Western tourists, they offer a variety of things to see and do, and that they are all unique and special in their own way.
If you like history, deserts, stunning architecture, mountains, trekking, skiing, different cultures, friendly people and/or remoteness, then Central Asia has something for you. Aside from accommodation being pricey in parts of Kazakhstan (such as Astana the capital) the region is very affordable. Transport varies from mini-bus to high speed trains. The topography is incredibly varied. For the adventurous backpacker who likes to get off the beaten track, it's the perfect place on Earth to head to.

I was in the region back in 2011, May-June. I started in Kazakhstan and saw some of the east of the country, then had a short time in both Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. What I was disappointed in was the time I had. So little it seemed. To take in the three countries 2 months might be enough, I had five weeks. To take on all five, I'd be hoping for 3 months. What can they offer you?

Kazakhstan

Gold Samovars in Astana

For more information, tips and stories see my ebook: Short Journeys: Kazakstan

Kazakhstan offers two cities that are in many ways polar opposites. The former capital Almaty is charming and leafy, with lush gardens and parks, culture and old world charm. The new capital, Astana, is a stunning modern city with some of the world's most draw-dropping buildings, including the glass-pyramid 'Palace of Peace and Accord', and the Byoterek, a giant ice cream cone 97 metres tall. Not far from that you will find two giant gold samovars as well.
Kazakhstan goes forward on the back of its President, Nazabaev, who has seen the country emerge thanks to a resources boom after becoming independent. Much of the 9th biggest country in the world is steppe though, where nomadic people live in huts/tents called yurts. A train journey across the wide spaces reveals this stunning 'steppe'. Semey in the north was once the home of Dostoevsky, and you can visit his house there or visit a museum dedicated to Kazakhstan's most revered poet, Abay.

Kyrgyzstan

Family on the Kyrgyzstan countryside

For more information, tips and stories see my ebook: Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan

Stunning mountains in the east and south and a very likable capital in Bishkek where the opera is cheap and the parks are full of table tennis tables. Bishkek is a smaller version of Almaty, with its own charm and beautiful on a summer or spring day. The parks are lovely and the museums are interesting and offer perhaps a different impression of history than one you've had before.

The hiking up in the region of Karakol and beyond is stunning, the mountains are beautiful and I found myself at a little hidden treasure in the valley of Altyn Arashan. There's also the mightly Lake Issyk-kul with a variety of activities and so much more. Further to the south-west of the country is the more Uzbek area around Osh, which when stable is said to be fascinating.

Uzbekistan

Bukhara

For more information, tips and stories see my ebook: Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan

Islamic Architecture, deserts and a busy and big capital in Tashkent. This is Uzbekistan, home of the best accommodation in Central Asia - Bread and Breakfast places for $15-$20 that are comfortable with hosts who really look after you. Tashkent features wide roads, theatres, museums - including one to Timur, a mighty Uzbek warrior and rival to Genghis Khan, and Navoi Park, a huge city park that includes a small lake and beach which is very popular in the summer. All through Central Asia you can see people swimming in fountains too, the kids love the water.
Head westward and you feel like you're heading east. It becomes a desert, and the cities of Samarkand and Bukhara are full of beautiful and historic Islamic buildings including mosques and medressas. Marvel at two of the Silk Road's most stunning cities, stay in the old town where you are firmly in the Middle East.

Tajikistan

Border of Afghanistan and Tajikistan

I would have dearly loved to get to all of the Central Asian states, but Tajikistan and Turkmenistan were left out sadly owning to time. Tajikistan in perhaps the most mountainous of all the states, featuring the 5000 metre plus Pamir mountain range, passed many centuries ago now by Marco Polo. For trekkers this is THE country to get to without a doubt in Central Asia.

Turkmenistan

The astounding Ashgabat.

One country that I am desperate to visit because it is so 'out there', Turkmenistan had a charismatic and somewhat bizarre leader, Niyazov, who renamed himself Turkmenbashi - leader of the Turkmen. The capital Ashgabat is apparently full of monuments to him in somewhat Soviet style. Rich on oil, the country has very strict and somewhat expensive visa rules, with a topography similar to that of Uzbekistan - a fair bit of desert.
It sounds like another world, what I have read about Turkmenistan. And that floats my boat. Even just for a few days, I would love to see the place and say I've been. Ashgabat sounds like it is opulence gone mad full of palaces and monuments, and a lot of marble. Elsewhere there are a series of burning craters, created from gas exploration which are again out of this world.



Not only do I want to visit Turkmenistan and Tajikistan, I want to go back to the three countries I've been and explore further. Hopefully, one day, I can because it is such a brilliant part of our world. Next time you're planning a trip, and you want to think outside the box, think 'Central Asia'. It's something special.

T'riffic Tashkent

Hi all

a short extract from my latest ebook - Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.

I have been talking lately a bit about Kyrgyzstan, so here is a bit of information straight from the book about Tashkent, the Uzbek capital.

The book is available now for Kindle, and is only $1.39. Please support independent epublishing!

Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan (US Kindle Store)

Short Journeys: Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan (UK Kindle Store)

Tashkent

The Sleeping

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Gulnara Bed & Breakfast. Single room, shared bathroom, breakfast. $20 (February 2014)

This is the place to stay for the budget traveller in Tashkent. They have all manner of rooms in buildings set around a nice courtyard, including dorms. It’s very popular and was full of people waiting for onward visas and the like when I was there. The room I had was really nice despite no private bathroom. Despite no air conditioning it was cool, quiet and had a comfortable bed. The place had simple cooking facilities and the people who stayed there were friendly and a good crowd.

It’s cheap, registration was simple, good family running the place, spacious. Ok, I don’t need to go on, a great place to stay, as were all my guesthouses in Uzbekistan.

On top of that, my first night in Uzbekistan and Tashkent I was taken in by a man I met on the taxi rides from Kazakhstan to Tashkent. He was really friendly and when I discovered the above guesthouse booked out for that night, he very kindly offered me a place to stay even though I had decided to go to a different hotel. He had a very well appointed apartment, but I will always remember the generosity.

Tashkent the city and the seeing

Tashkent is a much bigger city than Bishkek. More grandiose and wider than Almaty, it didn’t appear to be overpopulated, but it did appear to take up a fair amount of land. It was cooler than the other parts of the country that I visited thankfully, and has a selection of museums and again plenty of parks to keep the visitor amused for a couple of days at least.

Getting around it by taxi isn’t too expensive, and there is also a bristling metro which doesn’t yet cover the whole city, but if there’s a station close to where you want to go it’s the best deal around and well run. Be prepared to have your bags searched at metro stations coming in, Tashkent is pretty security conscious. The Metro in 2011 was 600 som for a trip.

History Museum of the Timurids (Entrance 3000 som)

You may not have heard of Timur, but for today’s Uzbekistan, he is the most important historical figure. The somewhat eccentric President of Uzbekistan, Karimov, has moulded modern Uzbekistan on the back invoking the memory of this Uzbek warrior, who lived 600 years ago and seems to be the Uzbek answer to Genghis Khan. Like Kazakhstan, since the breakup of the Soviet Union there were some dark years followed by a resources’ boom which has delivered financial stability to the country.

Timur has since become a symbol of pride for the Uzbek people, and Karimov has used his image to inspire the Uzbek people and increase national pride. So, they built a museum to Timur housed in an interesting domed building. The ceiling of the dome is particularly beautiful, and the circular building itself is impressive. A very fancy chandelier hangs from the centre of the dome, and the visitor is treated to all manner of images of Amir Timur.

The building is more interesting, sadly, than the contents of the museum which doesn’t have much in the way of English and is telling the story of Timur. You will find a quote there from President Islam Karimov –

‘Anyone who wants to understand who the Uzbeks are, if somebody wants to comprehend the power, might, justice and unlimited abilities of the Uzbek people, their contribution to global development, their belief in future, he should recall the image of Amir Timur.’ Yes, it probably doesn’t make a lot of sense. But there’s some passion there for you.

If you’re done with the museum but not done with Amir Timur, then opposite the museum is a huge square that is called the ‘Amir Timur Maydoni’, which I’d say means ‘Amir Timur Square’. Roads and paths seem to stretch out from it in most directions and the Hotel Uzbekistan stands very tall to one side. But in the centre you will find a very fine, tall statue of Timur himself taking his place in modern Tashkent. What more could you ask for?

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For the record Timur lived somewhere between 600 and 700 years ago and was a bit of a blood thirsty tyrant. Still, using his image to shape modern Uzbekistan has appeared to be successful, you would have to say Karimov’s ideas for motivation have been a big hit.

The History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan (entrance – 4000 som)

If you’re looking for a more traditional museum with more interesting contents, then this one fits the bill. For historians and archaeologists there’s a lot here from different periods of history and regions, and if you like your pottery old and broken bowls, you’ll be well catered for too. I must confess I was more taken by the staff using the wide screen televisions which I presumed were meant to be showing informative videos to watch Turkish soaps. Not such a great look… But amusing nonetheless!

The third floor has more about modern Uzbekistan, future projects and of course parts devoted to the President, Karimov. One thing the region is not short of is leaders with healthy egos. Do note that strictly speaking you are supposed to pay extra to use a camera in the museums in Tashkent, and often in other places in Central Asia too. In fact a camera can often cost twice the regular ticket. Don’t be surprised about it. Museums are not always the best place for photos anyways.

Chorsu Bazaar

Next to the Chorsu Metro stop and not far from Gulnara B & B, the Chorsu Bazaar is housed under some impressive domes and has all manner of vegetables, fruit and meat that you’d expect to find in a bustling bazaar. Not only that, but outside the central bazaar are shops for jewellery, postcards and other sorts of souvenirs and the prices are pretty reasonable so if you are looking to do some shopping, then this might just be the place for you.

Holy Assumption Cathedral

This Orthodox Cathedral is proof that there are still a few Russians living in Uzbekistan. When I visited I found it a bit out of the way, so I had to take a taxi, the metro didn’t come close to the area. The taxis in Tashkent generally only cost $3-5 for a ride, so it’s not a huge strain on the wallet. They were in the middle of some renovations, and some sections had scaffolding, but it’s big and serene inside. It has lovely dome with a candle chandelier hanging from it. It also has numerous gold domes not just on the church but over the entrance gate as well. It was built in 1871 and was apparently the first Orthodox cathedral in Central Asia.

Navoi Park

Of all the parks in Central Asia, this simply was the finest. And the biggest, it seemed to go one for acres. In fact it very probably did. And still does. And you know the best thing about parks; they are almost always completely free.

There is a man-made lake in the park which was set up as a sort of makeshift beach, and in the sun and heat it was a hit. You can walk around for hours and relax. There were plenty of pools and fountains with kids escaping the heat without their parents having to pay for them to go into the ‘beach’ area. There were also amusement rides, restaurants and ice cream carts. Easy place to lose yourself in for an afternoon.

Kulkedash Medressa

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Not far from the Chorsu Bazaar is the Kulkedash Medressa, well worth a visit. Although it has been restored many times (thanks to earthquakes) the medressa dates back to the 16^th century. This would make it one of the older buildings (or at least the site) in Tashkent. It’s really beautiful and was abuzz with activity when I visited; it is still very much a place of learning. Inside the outer walls the courtyard is a well appointed garden, a little bit of paradise away from the outside hustle and bustle of Tashkent.